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OFF THE RACK vs. MADE TO MEASURE

Wed, 22 Jun 2022 19:58:32 GMT

Once you go Made-To-Measure, you'll never go back to off the rack.

When men come into the store and say they need a suit, I always ask them how soon do you need it? In other words, is there enough time for a made-to-measure(MTM) suit? If the gentleman has the time, then he would do himself a favor opting for the made to measure suit. Some men call it a bespoke suit or tailor made suit; even a custom made suit. Or he can choose an off-the-rack(OTR) suit? Depending on the gentleman's size, we will recommend a made-to-measure suit.

We consider the three main components in a made-to-measure suit- fit, fabric, & construction. A well fitting suit is a statement of quality and an investment well worth making.

There are starting fabrics for OTR suits, which are often limited choices in solids and subtle patterns. The choices for a MTM suit expands to several hundred colors and patterns. You get a finer fabric complimenting the construction and fit. From Worsted 100s to Super 150s, these fine wools are perfect for daily wear. You can make your wardrobe unique in colors, patterns and design. Fabric is usually the first choice that a gentleman picks for his garment. Made-To-Measure suits last longer, take more wear & tear, and offer nearly unlimited personalization.

During the initial appointment, we discuss the customer's requirements of the garment. We then choose the fabric and then take the measurements; but not always in that order. And whatever fabric he selects, he will love wearing it for meetings, confernces, events, galas, and parties. The benefit of the MTM suit makes a man feel positive and confident. When you gain confidence in your profession, you enjoy your work and life. This attitude spills over into every aspect of your existence. When measuring, we take into account: the sloping or squareness of the shoulders, posture, head position, chest fullness or slight build, and chest darts which help the lapel hug a fuller chest. Most alterations cannot fix these due to a mans body shape. The coat has to be cut to fit his unique torso. All of these are figured out so it fits as the client wants.

The details in the suit give you options beyond whats in a OTR suit. MTM has the options of: two or three button, side or center vent, outside ticket pocket, and pleats or no pleats on the pants. You can choose from several silouettes for the fit of your suit; from classic to slim. You can select different colored button on the sport coat or suit jacket. For the fall season, men put suede elbow patches on certain sport coats giving them a natty look and feel. Some of our clients don't stop there. They choose a peak lapel instead of a regular notch lapel, a hand pick stitch around the lapel edge, or surgeon sleeves (working buttonholes) on suit or sportcoat. Choosing as many or a few details makes a garment unique and reflects the wearers personality.

Altering a garment to fit has its limitations determined by a customers build. It only reveals imperfections in sizing someone on a proprtional range. If he's outside that range, then bringing him to the correct size is the only option. A MTM suit is the best option taking out all the guesswork from alterations. A MTM suit fits better than a second skin, it moves with you. Tailoring a suit not only fits a customer perfectly and it also accentuates your best features while masking the ones that you'd prefer to keep hidden. We measure the man, not the garment to fit correctly.

We are fully qualified to measure and notice all the angle's and nuances of the wearer's body. We specialize in the made-to-measure suits and also create a pattern from initial measurements. People use made-to-measure interchangeably with tailor-made, custom-tailored, well-tailored, specially-made, custom-built, and custom-made. We send your measurements to Oxxford Clothes, Hickey-Freeman, Empire Clothes or Northwick. The construction time can last 5 to 8 weeks. We don't want a client to say the garment fits "Just fine." No it needs to exceed his expectations. You are only limited by your imagination and budget.

The looming technology during the last 75 years has made incredible strides compared to the previous 300 years. Fabrics used to be bulky, itchy and had little drape. Nowadays a common daily suit for men is Super 120s which 75 years ago was considered a luxury fabric. In Chattanooga, we make and carry several yeard-round, light weight suits. The norm in 8.5 to 9 ounces which may not sound like much. We don't get the temperature extremes the north and northeast get. In Europe 200 years ago, men stayed warm wearing the heavier suits during winter. Temperatures ranged from lows of 20 degrees Fahrenheit to highs of 55 degrees- 13 degrees to -7 degrees Celsius. You wanted to wear warm garments. Today, we have AC and central heat to regulate our homes. We don't need to wear heavy clothing in the winter anymore and can wear comfortable weights all year.

This demand for the year round fabrics has increased to offer hundreds of choices. They offer different colors, weaves and patterns. Classic patterns include: stripes, windowpanes, glen plaids, and herringbones. Other patterns are sharkskins, twill weaves, and nailsheads, And in solids, there is a plain weave and even a non-solid solid. Yes, that is what they call it, and its different from a sharkskin. The majority of fabrics are constructed from wool with linen/wool or cashmere/wool blends available for suits. You will find silk/wool/linen, linen/wool, silk/cashmere, and cotton/wool blends available for sportcoats. Cloth for sportcoats either have a tight or open weave.

There's just no better feeling than putting on a well tailored suit after wearing an ill tailored suit. A well tailored suit highlights your strengths while an ill tailored suit cannot hide your flaws. And each time a gentleman gets a suit made for him; he loves how it fits and wears. He enjoys utilizing the suit in his wardrobe, he cannot bear the thought of going back from wearing a suit he selected and fits immpeccably.

The Mystique of Cocktail Attire

Wed, 01 Jun 2022 14:58:17 GMT

Is business attire Cocktail Dress? Yes with some nuances. Better to show up in a tuxedo at a bowling alley than a wedding in your bowling shoes.

There should be no mystery to what Cocktail Dress calls for in a suit. Because of the invitations language, men don't realize it means Business Attire. In other words, wear your best suit and dressiest tie. Cocktail Dress falls right after White Tie and a side step from Black Tie while being entirely appropriate for funerals and other formal occasions. So men don't realize what it really means.

There are several important items that make up a "cocktail dress" outfit. Remember the three most important core items: 1. Dark suit 2. white dress shirt 3. dark tie. Lastly you should wear dark shoes-brown shows with a navy or charcoal suit. To pull off the look, wear clean shoes, simple white pocket square, and over the calf socks. A bow tie is acceptable in this scenario. No cummerbund set- save for the tuxedo. Don't wear bright ties or shirts. Wear a VERY subtle stripe suit as an option to a solid or subtle pattern. Less pattern is more.

If your invitation states a semi-formal or formal attire, these are vague and challenging dress codes to deal with today because they mean different things to different people. In the past, formal attire was a tuxedo, while semi-formal would be like cocktail attire. These days the ambiguity of these dress codes can make them frustrating for guests.

The occasion of a wedding or party/ gala is the time to wear the subdued clothing and ties. Do not wear khakis, or business casual attire or a sportcoat. And unless the wedding is at a beach, socks are a requirement. You are always safe to wear the dress code suggested. And if its a more casual event, wear a lighter shade suit with the brighter ties. In winter you can even wear a flannel suit. And for more casual events, this is the time to experiment with shirts & ties you have. Look at our GALLERY to see colors and combinations that you like together. In this more casual setting, you can opt a red carnation in place of a pocket square. A timeless windowpane suit makes for a great cocktail attire choice. A solid suit and soft stripe suit will match the elegance for the occasion. When in doubt, wear a tie.

Learn more about the event, look at the time and location. You can wear a seersucker suit to a lawn party at a plantation calling for cocktail attire. You would not wear that to summer party in the city. If a social group or club is involved, then always dress the code. Better to show up in a tuxedo to a bowling alley than a wedding in your bowling shoes. Dress code matters.

When cocktail attire is called for as the dress code at your next event, now you know what you need to wear to look and feel great. At a wedding, try to be properly dressed without being too flashy and always keep the bride and groom in mind. For cocktail parties and receptions, leave your business navies and grays in the closet and add a splash of color. I hope I provided you with some food for thought for cocktail attire for your next reception – have fun and enjoy the company and drinks!

Celebrating Father's Day

Wed, 04 May 2022 21:13:10 GMT

Celebrating Father's Day

I write this blog discussing the history of and gift ideas for Father's Day. But first I must acknowledge Mother's Day on Sunday, May 8. Father's Day is June 19, so come in now for gift ideas.

There are a few discrepancies on when the first Father's Day was celebrated. Father's Day is a celebration honoring people's fathers and celebrating the fatherhood, paternal bonds, and the influence of fathers in their children's lives and society. It was a day first proposed by Sonora Dodd of Spokane, Washington in 1909. It is observed on the third Sunday in June to complement Mother's Day in celebrating fathers, fathering and fatherhood. First celebration was June 19, 1910 at the Spokane YMCA in Washington. Her father was a Civil War veteran, William Smart-a single parent- that raised six children. She was inspired by a Mother's Day sermon and told her pastor the fathers should have a similar holiday honoring them. The third Sunday celebration was to give clergy time to prepare sermons.

Although it did have much success at first, Dodd began promoting the celebration nationally during the 1930s. With the help of trade groups, in 1938 retailers consolidated the commercial promotion of companies that manufactured ties, shirts, and traditional gifts. Americans resisted the holiday for some time, perceiving it as replicating Mother's Day commercial success. Newspaper attacks making cynical and sarcastic jokes and attacks only made retailers incorporate into advertisements. It became more and more popular, and by the 1980s, Father's Day had become a Second Christmas for all the men's gift-oriented industries.

President Woodrow Wilson tried to make it law in 1918 even speaking in Spokane, Washington on Father's Day. In 1924 President Calvin Coolidge suggested to observe and honor the day, but short of a national proclamation. Not until 1966 was Father's Day officially proclaimed a national holiday, third Sunday in June and officially observed over 40 years after Mother's Day was established. However, it was still not signed into law until 1972 by Richard Nixon.

A "Father's Day" service was held on July 5, 1908 to honor the loss of hundreds of fathers. The Monongah Mining Disaster killed 361 men, 250 of them fathers, in December 1907. Grace Clayton had suggested that all these fathers, and hers, be honored to her pastor. With other events going on(July 4th the day before and a murder), no promotion from City Council, and being a local event, Clayton's event did not have repercussions outside of the town.

It was proposed in 1911 in Chicago, but turned down. In 1912 in Vancouver, Washington

celebrated believing it to be the first such event. A member of Lions Clubs International claimed that he had the idea in 1915. Harry C. Meek claimed it the third Sunday in June because it was his birthday. Now the US Open golf tournament is scheduled to finish on Father's Day, as was the 2016 NBA Finals.

In 2022, how are you celebrating Father's Day? After the Covid-19 pandemic, we can meet for dinner. We can see a movie, have a party, go to a baseball game, walk in the park, or numerous other ways to celebrate dad. How will you spend it?

What gift do you want to give him? That is an even more list of items to give. But may I suggest a few. Ties and cuff links are always great gifts. You could also give a pair of Bills Khakis, Brax 5 pocket pants, a sportshirt, navy blazer, the Chattanooga belt- our exclusive, see SHOP- alligator belt or denim jeans. These are just a few suggestions from what we carry with others in the SHOP. If you don't know his size, then a gift certificate fits every time. Then he can come select exactly what he wants.

The Return of the Black Suit

Mon, 28 Feb 2022 15:11:40 GMT

We used to say save black for your tuxedo. Now as times and fits are changing, the black suit has returned.

The black suit is back. . . but it never really left.

When I started in the clothing business in 2000, the black suit didn't have much respect. Everyone said wear charcoal or navy and save black for your tuxedo. Times have changed and fits are very different. The oversize cut of clothing from the 1990s and 2000s look huge; and are gone. So men are wearing black suits in trimmer models and tighter fits. We can make a slim suit or any fit a customer wants, that's custom.

We take most of our dressing cues from the British. For decades they have worn black mainly for formal events. That's why charcoal, navy, and grey have been mainstay suit colors for most men. We've always dealt with timeless clothing. Men wear this for years not falling victim to fads. There is no replacement for timeless style. Fashion comes and goes. And traditionalists consider black a mainstay suit. Let me also clarify that in the south, men didn't wear black suits much. The southern men also wear color and pleated pants at the time. They still do and wear plain front pants.

The black suit was worn more in the northeast, Chicago and California. It was considered more contemporary in the south. That is changing while introducing patterns and stripes in black tones. The events both casual and formal are seeing more black suits. The black color is very slimming which is why men and women love black. The color is always dressy and casual. Worn at weddings, funerals, meetings, lunches, galas, and dinners, the black suit upgrades your style to timeless sophistication.

The black suit can be worn by someone who doesn't fit in. He can be a mess or a menace. He defines his difference from wearing the black suit. And while you may sense dread, a man wears it to hide his true nonconformity. Now men dress in black simply to look cool. With no hidden meaning, they wear an easy uniform that takes them from A to B. For some, dressing has become an insignificant part of their day, they simply try to blend in with the rest of humanity in a way that will not draw attention, good or bad. They see the dual purpose of the black suit as easy and looking cool.

For spring and fall, men are dressing again. To the office, meeting in person, for the conference; demand for a signature suit is on the rise. The black suit in the timeless solid or a self windowpane are gaining ground. You will see self stripes, subtle chalk stripes, glen plaids and of course the three piece. Just like the suit landscape changing during pandemic with the blue suit, its changing for the black suit. Men want to find their voice post pandemic in dressing well. I dress, therefore I am- and the rest of the world had best take note.

The Journey To Oxxford Clothes

Fri, 22 Oct 2021 16:33:53 GMT

Seeing the handwork in person made me appreciate it even more.

The flight is at 7AM from Chattanooga. A direct flight to Chicago that takes less than 90 minutes in the air. I arrive at the airport, go through security and I'm reading a book until 2 of my clients say hello. Duane and David arrive excited to tour the manufacturing facility. Oxxford Clothes is made like no other garment in the world. They are the epitome of fine tailored clothing.

It was a rainy day when we touched the ground at O'Hare. We took the car to the facility, rain was decreasing. It turned into a nice day, for Chicago. We enter the building and are greeted. We are shown to the reception area, fitting rooms and showroom to look at fabrics. We look around and soon greeted by Nicole- Operations Manager. She gives us a tour first of the facility until Stanley is ready to fit their garments.

We walk by many needleworkers doing numerous intricate tasks. I see the famous "Always Be Faithful to Quality" sign that is Oxxford's mantra. Nicole leads us to a room with two twenty five foot tables. Several bolts of fabric are on the table waiting for their turn at the blue pencil. The blue pencil is the simple task of drawing the pattern on the fabric for a desired garment. I say simple because the cutter also has to know how to match the pattern at all seams. They make it look effortless, but its far from easy and simply. There are boxes of tailors chalk, yardsticks, and huge shears on the table to complete this task. These shears are razor sharp, more than a foot long and heavy. This is all done by hand which is labor intensive. They also have big weights to hold down the pattern during the cutting process. Nicole tells us that each client can have their own pattern to be used for any and all orders.

Nicole takes us into the pattern room. Its got some famous names and not so famous names in about 900 square feet. Each step in the process is important, but not being correctly cut and sized with perfect seams is not an option. This room is where more fabric can be wasted if this cutting is not perfect. We next go to where the lining for inside the coat is sewn. At first, one person makes a basting stitches on a machine to hold them together while still being able to complete hand work. Next to be added, lapel shape, shoulder pads, and pocketing on inside. Each part of the coat yous see and don't see has numerous steps involved. The average suit takes 2-3 hours total to sew together. The Oxxford Clothes take 29-30 hours of total time. That includes, sewing, pressing, and cutting. The shape of the lapels and collar are formed by a "skin" sewn into the garment. The skin or canvas is reinforced by a hand stitch to hold the shape of the lapel once its pressed. The number of stitches is about 2000, looks like a chevron pattern stitch. Most manufacturers glue this piece, the better companies sew it in by machine. Oxxford does this all by hand.

The next area we go to is adding the strap on the lapel which reinforces the shape and roll. They sew in the buttonholes on the coat front and sleeves. And you can hear the hiss and hum of pressing machines throughout the floor. There are more pressing machines with shapers that set the roll, lapel angle and many other shapes. This process is time consuming to press and repress. Every step is completed by pressing the fabric and work. The sleeves still need to be added to the coat. They are sewn into the body using a fluid chain-loop stitch. The coat moves with the gentleman making every action flawless and free flowing. Other suits are stiff with the rigid construction and aren't as comfortable. When each front side, back, sleeves and collar are assembled, Stanley- Head Tailor- inspects every jacket. And if it doesn't pass, work is corrected. Oxxford's quality standards are the highest in the industry= "Meeting the demands of those in charge." Each piece has a spec sheet telling sizes, alterations, and lining number making sure its made correctly.

We then have each client try on his coat and Stanley marks the alterations. Bruce and I at the store don't normally mark coats that small or close. We don't normally size jackets to be too small, but to fit closer not slim. But James, who just arrived, Duane and David are all under 50. Therefore they want this closer cut. Over the next hour, Stanley looks at every inch of the coats on each gentleman. He makes the necessary adjustments, alterations, and sizing so a pattern can be created. After today, they will have their "own pattern" for each future order. This exact pattern and sizing are another reason that make Oxxford Clothes truly unique. We like a more classic or timeless fit that most men can wear; not too full, not too skinny.

After this informative series of measurements, we look a different fabrics in the showroom. They all fall in love with a 5 pocket style, and a few other items. Oxxford pants have another uniques construction, the pockets are part of the waistband. Therefore, they wear and move with you like nothing else. The fabric is a dark grey flannel, mid-weight which is perfect for the Chattanooga area. The other fine fabrics they look through include several well known mills: Holland & Sherry, Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Scabal, and an archival collection from the 1920s. Oxxford references the archives for any seasonal pieces which always refreshes the collection.

It was an action packed day touring, fitting, and browsing fabrics. We make it back to Chattanooga. But not before looking around the showroom at fabrics and I see some incredible combinations. The fabrics are most appreciated felt and touched in person. I cannot convey adequately the softness and drape of the fabric, nor construction of garment in this blog. Please come see and feel for yourself.

Summer

Wed, 28 Jul 2021 14:47:55 GMT

Beach. Pool. Boat.

Summer vibes. Sun, surf, sand. Pool time. Beach time. Boat time. Sand between your toes. Relaxing days in the heat enjoying leisure time. Enjoying the sea breeze with no humidity. Lounging in the pool, l oving the sunshine of summer and long days. Spending time with family at home or away from home. I enjoy those times and being away from home to relax. Where do you enjoy your time? I've enjoyed theatre before Covid, enjoying free time, but still miss it. During this warm time, you can also learn new skills. When I was a kid, I learned to surf, boogie board, and tread water. I was 12 or 13 in San Diego. Had lots of fun on those long days. Lots of swimming in the ocean and bay. Still no expert in these skills, but I know how to do them. I even learned how to ski behind a boat in Watts Bar Lake in Tennessee. I respect the process and challenges of each. Its hard to surf in East Tennessee with or without a wet suit.

Now it being 2021 and hopefully we've got past Covid-19 and the restrictions, we can still respect those wanting to maintain social distancing. Not everyone feels comfortable with the restrictions or them being lifted. Do what is right for you, but also be respectful of others. Now the test is to see how we can smartly gather with family and friends.

The more important aspect of summer time or summer vacation is a break from your work and normal life. Go somewhere, do something different, and change up your whole schedule. Or slow way down from your busy life to doing absolutely nothing. Whatever it is, take a break from the norm. Vacations are only vacations when you reduce stress and then hopefully, you can enjoy doing something different. I always like to travel to see different places with family. And if we've been there, see something different so the experience is not the same.

Then there are activities you're involved with where you meet people and make friends. We have them from all over the country. So we can travel and most likely see friends no matter where we go. It makes for great memories. Even mini adventures trying a winery or restaurant 60 minutes from where you live is a great new experience. Anything from the ordinary makes the extraordinary.

How long does summer last? How long does it last for you? Look at a calendar and you get three different answers depending if you are a student or teacher, meteorologist or parent. Summer doesn't end until mid-September for the meteorologist which would make school kids and teacher very happy. One of my nephews started school back today, 8th grade. Too soon? But his district is more on the year round learning theory. I think in my day we went back right before or right after Labor Day. My kids went mid-August and got mid-May. As a kid, I knew once school started back, the summer was gone. As Calvin said(from Calvin and Hobbes ) "It's July already! Oh No! What happened to June?! Summer vacation is slipping through our fingers like grains of sand! It's going to fast!" Some people feel that, especially teachers. Summer often feels like it goes too fast.

Welcome to the Brotherhood of Shaving

Fri, 11 Jun 2021 18:09:18 GMT

I will teach those less smooth than myself the path to smoothness. . . TAOS

I will not shave "economy" when "first class" is available. TAOS

I will not let my son watch me shave with a plastic razor. TAOS

I will discuss my love of shaving freely and without reservation. TAOS

I will resist the urge to bring out my shaving brush at parties. TAOS

Few skills in life learned early in life are used everyday. Shining shoes, giving a toast, building a campfire, hanging a picture, or giving a speech are skills men could use everyday, but most likely won't. Knotting a tie, shaking hands, making small talk, and performing a proper wet shave are the skills I use every day. So what is the makeup of a perfect shave? The path to smoothness is not hard, just an artful skill learned over a lifetime. We teach men how to improve their tie knot just like improving their shave.

For guys, learning the shave is the fundamental rite of passage from boyhood to manhood. Men love the perfect shave. In an attempt to achieve optimal results while trying to maximize the comfort factor, we teach The Art of Shaving 4 step method and sell their products to achieve the comfort and smoothness. When using this method, your face will feel refreshed from using the unique combination of tools, products and techniques.

Preparation is the most important step to lubricate the skin, hair and avoid irritation. It starts with proper grooming of your skin and your skin type. The Art of Shaving products has something for every skin type: oily, dry, normal, combination, sensitive, aging, and problem. Each of the Pre-Shave Oils, Shaving Creams or Soaps and After-Shave Balms all address the varying skin types. Know your products for your skin types whether it be Unscented, Sandalwood or Lavender. The most important thing is to wash your face with warm water before you shave. Set up your routine to wash your face in or out of the shower. After the shower, your skin will have been in the steamy water for 10 minutes and well prepared for shaving. I prefer to use the Unscented products so I can choose my cologne and not have scents mix.

Applying just the right amount of Pre-Shave Oil can take some time to perfect. A little goes a long way when applying to the main five regions of your face. Around your mouth and chin, right cheek, below right jaw line and neck, left cheek, and below left jaw line and neck. The oil provides the maximum amount of protection so your razor blade glides effortlessly to cut the hair, but not the skin. Use natural oils, which is in The Art of Shaving products, so your skins pores do not become clogged. The use of the oil goes a long way to enhancing skin health. Massage it into your skin before applying the shaving cream or soap.

Now you can Lather Up the shaving cream or soap. I've used both, but I prefer the soap at home to the cream. I get the same lather or better using my elbow grease while enjoying the process . When traveling its more convenient using the oil and then cream. At home, I lather up the soap with my fine badger-hair brush and apply it right after the oil. The cream gives a rich lather protecting the skin. Using a brush for either generates a warm lather, lifting the beard hair, and gently exfoliating the skin. And when lathering, a little soap or cream goes a long way. When using a brush, you distribute the shaving cream evenly and it gets underneath and around the hair. The brush does a better job applying than your fingers and results in a better shave.

So, to this point you've been preparing the skin. Now we can get on with it and use the razor to shave. Shave with the hair growth and very smooth action. Go over the facial area only once or twice, any more will irritate the skin. You can use a straight razor(old school), safety razor, and multi blade razor. I feel comfortable using the safety razor at home and multi blade when traveling. I have not used the straight razor, that skill I reserve for the professional barber. I have a beard and mustache and still use this method around my face. Facial shave area is reduced to 4 sections- basically above and below the beard on each side of my face. But I have greatly reduced the possibility of irritation and ingrown hairs using the oil and soap.

Still prepare your face with warm water to lather the product and get the hairs to stand up. To close the pores on your face, rinse the razor with cold water while shaving. It still gets the hair off and protects my skin. While shaving go around the face and finish above and below the mouth. Your chin will take the most skill and patience to complete shaving. And the total process of wet shaving should take 10 to 15 minutes.

Last step to completing your shave and entering the world of smoothness is the correct moisturizes. The Art of Shaving recommends using their oil based After-Shave Balm. When applying like the oil & cream, a little goes a long way. Apply the balm after removing any excess shave cream and oil to ensure you soothe, nourish and moisturize the skin. Avoid balms that have any alcohol, even 2%. The last thing you want to do is irritate the skin and remove a layer of skin after you just removed a layer of skin while shaving. This will not result in smoothness; it can result in redness, irritation, ingrown hairs and razor burn. Always practice good techniques and patience when shaving.

There are still challenges to shaving like around goatees or sideburns. However, the head shave becoming more popular in recent years still adheres to the same rules as the face. Use the Pre-Shave Oil, lather cream or soap, and reapply as needed. Always end with a good After-Shave Balm to moisturize the skin. Just as important, use a good razor and exercise patience. A good shave should take 10 to 15 minutes from start to finish. According to popular belief, there is no such thing as a quick shave.

Hopefully, reading this will improve your skill of shaving to the land of smoothness. And with Father's Day on June 20th, we carry the full line of products from The Art of Shaving. Introduce your dad to the brotherhood of the Art of Shaving. Or help him improve and upscale his shaving game.

Run For The Roses

Fri, 30 Apr 2021 14:21:00 GMT

The spring event like no other. . .

Roses. Twin Spires. Horse shoes. Mint Juleps. Jockeys. The roar of the crowd. The trumpeter playing the Call to the Post. The crowd singing "My Old Kentucky Home". These rich traditions transcend the Kentucky Derby from just a sporting event, making it a celebration of southern culture and a true icon of Americana. What else comes to mind when you think about the Kentucky Derby?

The Fastest Two Minutes in Sports. The Running of the Roses. A field of 18 thoroughbreds running 1 1/4 mile to go down in history. The first leg of the Triple Crown. No race in American history captures the public's awe like the Kentucky Derby. And there is a short list of Triple Crown winners, which all starts at the Kentucky Derby. The Triple Crown of horse racing is considered one of the most difficult accomplishments in horse racing, and possibly all of sports championships. Secretariat's time at the Derby still stands from 1973. Being one of the most prestigious horse races in the world, it is no wonder why Churchill Downs draws such large crowds- 155,000.

We look at the crowd to see the outfits. See who's wearing seersucker, linen, white buck shoes, suits, sportcoats, and hats. And we look to see who's wearing the brightest, most colorful, most outlandish outfit combinations. Not only is this the Super Bowl event of horse racing, it is for showcasing your fashion and people wearing there best. Its such a huge event and stage. Funny thing is they would wear things to the Derby that they would never wear to any other party. But that's the point. Look your best, stand out in the crowd. For many people, this is the beginning of the spring wearing season.

There is so much history at Churchill Downs. It is a small and intimate track. I can only imagine the roar of the crowd from every spectator level. Visiting once in July, we went on the tour. Saw many statues, jockey colors display, the names of every winner since 1875, the areas where crowds could watch on TV and the betting cages. As you might expect the rose garden and museum are stunning. The Kentucky Derby is the oldest continuously running sports event in the U.S. A truly American race on the first Saturday in May every year. The rich and famous that mingle among the Derby Day crowd add a unique dimension to the spectacle. Movie moguls, recording artists, royalty, senators, comedians, actors, sport legends, and TV personalities all come to participate in the race and revel in the tradition. The red rose became the official flower of the Kentucky Derby in 1904. The Twin Spires on the new grandstand built in 1894 exemplify late 19th century architecture, in which symmetry and balance took precedence over function. Today, visitors from all over the world come to have their photos taken in front of the iconic Twin Spires.

And then there's the excitement of the race. Which horse will win? That's why they run and call it the most exciting two minutes in sports. He's ahead by 2 lengths. Here they come down the stretch. This horse is ahead by 4 lengths and that by 8 and so on. The excitement by watching how it unfolds. And watching it on TV, if you step away for even a minute, then you can miss the move that sends a horse into history. Like Secretariat, he made his move on the final turn into the home stretch. Gaining and gaining to solidify his place in horse racing history. These were the first steps he took to secure being known as the greatest racehorse that ever lived.

The Finest

Mon, 12 Apr 2021 19:39:19 GMT

The Finest. . .Oxxford Clothes made by hand

Who do you think is the finest? I ask this question and you may think of cars? of banks? of colleges? No simply. . .Who makes the finest garment in the world? What sets them apart from every other clothing manufacturer? Oxxford Clothes is made in Chicago; not Italy or England. They are made completely by hand from cutting to final pressing. The motto- Always Be Faithful To Quality. The foundation of an Oxxford suit is steeped in impeccable hand construction which feels like no other because our garments are made like no other.

Jacob and Louis Weinberg founded Oxxford Clothes in 1916 with a mission to establish the standard by which all men’s tailored clothing is judged. The Weinbergs were determined that no possible fineness in craftsmanship or material be overlooked in the achievement of that purpose. Today, the Oxxford mission remains unchanged. Since 1916, the world’s leading men have worn Oxxford for its elegance and character. Early on, gentlemen such as Clark Gable, Cary Grant, Walt Disney, and Joe DiMaggio chose Oxxford, and to this day, Oxxford’s client list reads like a “Who’s Who” of the world’s gentlemen. Today, men can still turn with full confidence to Oxxford Clothes, an institution which remains fully committed to its original mission: tailoring the clothing by which all others are judged.

The two pillars of this handmade garment are construction and fabric. Using the finest materials in the garment's chest piece, shoulder pads, threads and intricate to the shape & longevity are second to none. The area of a sportcoat that generates the shape is stitched by hand with 2,950 stitches for balance: the collar and both sides of the lapel. Hand-stitched lapels and collars shape the cloth and inner linings together to create a graceful and elegant line. Hand basted shoulders and armholes, featuring a reverse chain stitch maintains the armseye rather than a binding tape which affords a softer feel and impeccable fit. All of these artisan methods contribute to the extraordinary suppleness and softness that you experience with Oxxford. Coupled with hand tailoring methods with the finest textiles, canvasses, shoulder pads, linings, silk thread, pocketing and more, results in a magnificent suit of clothes. The impeccability and attention to detail steeped in the construction can only be complimenting by the exclusive degree of fabric finesse.

Only the finest, most choice, and hand selected wools will meet these demanding standards. Holland & Sherry is the finest fabric mill in England. They loom fine wools, cashmere, angoras, silks, vicunas, cottons, mohair, alpacas, linen,and silks to produce fabric bolts for making trousers, sportcoats, suits, topcoats, tuxedos or vests. The fabrics have been developed exclusively by Holland & Sherry and are renowned for holding their shape well when tailored. This quality alone allows for a smart bespoke, sculptured look; perfect for a stylish business image in any climate. Cashmere is the soft downy fleece of the cashmere goat whose rural habitat in Mongolia contributes to the cashmere's softness, fibre length, and ultra-fine micron. The soft downy fleece is protected by coarse guard hairs and is responsible for protecting the goat from the elements during the harsh Mongolian winter months. As the spring approaches, the soft downy fleece is no longer required and begins to shed naturally. At this time the Mongolian herders carefully gather the luxurious fibres by hand-combing their fleece; the process is slow and meticulous so no harm or stress is inflicted on the animal. Animal welfare is our main concern, and we can proudly state that the cashmere used in this collection is ethically and sustainably sourced.

Once the combing process is complete, the tough outer guard hairs are separated and removed, leaving only the finest, softest cashmere fibres. Cashmere is one of the most valued and exquisite of animal hairs because of its incredible softness, making it one of the most sought-after and comfortable to wear. Transforming woven cashmere into luxurious finished product has remained unchanged for hundreds of years. The process of sorting, washing, drying and dyeing all labor to produce yarns which produce beautiful colors and patterns when loomed. The undercoats are generally white or black and respond well to the dyeing process.

Any other fabrics used from Holland & Sherry are often exclusive to Oxxford Clothes meaning only they can produce your garment. For a clothing aficionado, there is nothing better than NOT seeing your sportcoat or pants walking down the street. Maybe something similar, but not quite the particular nuance of your fabric. And this is something men want, unusual clothing garments that are styled immaculately and unique to their wardrobe.

Here at Oxxford we bring you the ultimate highest quality custom experience offering you USA's only true bespoke garments. It begins with an initial fitting with your tailor with detailed measurements and observations in body shape and preferences. A comprehensive review of textiles and a fabric selection along with a conversation in style is next. Your second fitting will ensure an impeccable fit, and revisions will be noted in sleeves and trouser inseams for the best placement. Finally, a final fitting is completed and the delivery of your unique garment.

I wanted to invite you to look at these amazing fabrics during our exclusive spring showing on April 15. Come see their ability to hand make a superior, luxury product in the United States that sets them apart from everyone else. I look forward to showing you the most luxurious fabrics available from around the world to create a garment that is uniquely you.

Spring Wares

Tue, 06 Apr 2021 16:42:14 GMT

Easter to Labor Day. . . seersucker is the fabric of choice.

Spring t ime, we are now able to wear the linens, seersucker pants & suits, and white outfits. The warm weather is the return of long days, summer breezes(and heat) and a desire to be comfortable. Humans have known the cooling virtues of seersucker since the British colonial days and in the South. Often used as bed ticking during the Victorian age, the wealthy used it to stay cool during the socials, parties and galas. Therefore, a southern gentlemen was always dapper in his seersucker suit. I have worn a maroon & ivory, grey & white and the epitome of seersucker choice- the blue & white. I thought I liked them! But I have a client that has a pink & white, tan & white, orange & white, yellow & white, black & white, blue & white, white, and green & white seersucker suits. He didn't like the either purple nor red fabric we could get. He gets it, and loves seersucker for the summer.

We know the fabric’s rise occurred around 1900 and then in the 1920s when it was used by preppy undergraduate college students and professors alike. Seersucker became a staple on college campuses across the US, particularly at Ivy League schools, where students often wore one seersucker garment (often, a blazer) whereas academic staff were known to wear full suits with a red bow tie. By the 50s, numerous companies such as Southwick and Hickey-Freeman were manufacturing all kinds of pieces, thus cementing its place in men's wardrobes. And during World War II, female officers in the Army, Navy & Marines, wore this striped summer fabric. Liking the aesthetics and qualities of it, nurses famously wore this fabric that became known as the "candy stripe." Servicemen remembered this fabric and that in part created the demand in the 1950s.

Seersucker is a fabric that immediately sets a nostalgic feel- think Gregory Peck in To Kill A Mockingbird , or Matlock cross examining the witness that holds the key to the case. Social events like the Kentucky Derby, both men and women showcase their interpretation of the seersucker. Seersucker is worn by more celebrities and Senators then linens or white. There is something inherently congenial about seersucker that brings people together.

In recent years, we've seen a return to popularity through movies- The Great Gatsby(2013) and Olympic athletes donning them for the team uniforms. It will never go away. We can make it for you in a classic fit or the updated slim fit in a variety of colors.

Turning to linen, the very thing that hate about linen is the inherent feature that tells you you're wearing linen; the wrinkles. It is another summertime fabric that people love or hate. And in The Great Gatsby(2013) , Southwick made ten pink linen suits for Leonardo DiCaprio to always look fresh and not wrinkled. Most common wares for linen is trousers and shorts for men; skirts for women. A linen suit or sportcoat is for the gentleman that loves linen and the wrinkles. Linen trousers give your navy blazer a summer time feel for any soiree or gathering. And white is best loved in cotton or tropical weight wool. White linen is another epitome of a gentlemen's dapper look.

Now we see seersucker made anyway you can imagine: bow ties, shirts, girls dresses, boys shorts, shorts, trousers, ladies skirts & dresses, and men's suits & sportcoats. We love the summer fabrics and can't wait to wear them. You won't fully appreciate it until you are comfortable in the muggy summer heat.

I Tried Brax

Wed, 24 Mar 2021 14:21:51 GMT

I tried Brax and I liked them.

I tried Brax 5 Pocket pants and I liked them. I am used to wearing Model 1 or Model 2 from Bills Khakis. I like a roomy pant to feel comfortable. Do you want to know a secret? I love the fit and feel of the Pima cotton in the Brax. They are so soft and have some stretch that make the wearing so enjoyable. I didn't think I would like them. But I was proven wrong. And every man thats tried them on always asks, "What other colors can I get these in?"

We had just picked up the line and wanted to expand options for customers. We were happy with the selections of Bills Khakis, but they are getting fewer. So we wanted to add a new category between casual jeans and a dressier khaki trouser. One that looks great with every sportshirt and even some sportcoats. Brax fits this niche perfectly as a finer 5 pocket pant. Not as casual as jeans, not as dressy as khakis; the perfect hybrid. We have them in a brilliant blue to reflect the color choice of denim wearers and khaki shades for the Bills lover. The brilliant thing is Brax doesn't stop with those two colors. They offer green, brown, charcoal, golden, black, navy, grey and a white for summer. Each season brings its own shades and tones of these basic colors. You just have to decide on your favorite. One customer told me he wanted every color we had in his size, he loved them so much.

When I tried them on, I took off my Bills and put on the Brax. Yes there was a closeness I was not accustomed to and there was a softness I had not felt. This close I could feel the ultra soft Pima cotton fabric all over my legs. They hugged my legs in all the right spots and stretched where it was needed. It was like a second skin that I forgot about and went on with my day. I wore them longer and fell in love with them. And the difficult pant to find that every man wants, slimming and comfortable, was found in Brax.

You can feel them on the shelf and see all the colors on display. But you won't know you will love them until you try them on and feel the ultra soft Pima cotton. then you are hooked. With the solids, they offer weaves and patterns that are great options and additions. They are truly a great looking and comfortable 5 pocket pant to wear. This past fall we sold a pattern 5 pocket first to a man that was 70. He was looking for something different and edgy. Brax can fit any age or taste level. Just don't wait too long to try them.

Return of the Suit

Sat, 20 Mar 2021 13:15:54 GMT

What a difference a year makes. . .

We just had some important dates for the Covid-19 pandemic. March 13 marked one year since the shut down of numerous schools, businesses, and travel. I saw my family, no masks, in a restaurant for my wife's birthday on March 7th. And I have not seen many of them since. On the 13th there were less than 5000 deaths worldwide. Bans on travel were just about to begin and the economic impact would soon be felt. The stock market had its biggest drop since Black Monday in 1987. California just completed its Democratic primary in which Bernie Sanders won. And the NCAA's cancelling of the remaining season and the basketball tournament, also known as March Madness. This was a first in over 80 years soon followed by multiple schools closing and professional organizations ending their seasonal play. These closings brought a new normal. And what a year its has been.

We remained open while adjusting our schedule to shorten the day. Traffic was very light in March, April and May. It picked up in the summer and more steady as the fall approached. While schools have opened and restaurants are serving in person, travel is not fully opened, sports are not full capacity and concerts, live music, and theatre are not happening. The new Covid mantra is social distancing, wear masks, and limit gatherings to households to stop the further spread. We have many things to be thankful for even when people are working from home. During this time you gained or lost the "Covid 15" as we like to call it. You've either gained 15 from eating at home making your own food. Or lost 15 getting in shape, walking more and adjusting your eating habits. Our tailor shop stayed busy altering these changes. The suits may have shrunk in the closet. And now with things opening back up and business travel gearing back up, men are getting back to work. Men want a good looking suit that fits well and suits grooms can wear beyond this special event.

Our clients were telling us they would change out of pajamas in jeans or shorts working from home. We had a few that said I'm dressing up again to feel more professional. This is when they really looked at their wardrobe and could see what was worn out & needed to be replaced. The men that are dressing are looking for the mid grays and blues, not navy. The lighter blues or summer blue suits are the popular tones this spring. A summer blue suit or light blue suit is perfect for a spring/ summer wedding no matter the time. Travel for work even to personally visit offices, plant locations or storage facilities are on the rise. We are selling suits at a rate of 80% to 20% sportcoats. Men have loaded up on sportcoats over the last 4 to 5 years neglecting their suit choices.

Now that its spring, its time to clean out the closet and get rid of things. Or see what you wear the most and what you need. Organize your clothing so you know what you have. Dress for success and with hard persistent work you can make your dreams a reality. Now is a great time to add the timeless suit choices. Rotate your suit wardrobe and see where there are holes. You need the solid navy, solid charcoal, navy stripe, charcoal stripe, solid tan, other earthtone suits like olive or brown, black/white glen plaid, and a black/white houndstooth. Add windowpanes in the navys or greys and vary shade depending on season. The only fall suit you could wear is the grey flannel suit, the epitome of fall sartorial selections. Then you can add the suits with more color & pizzazz or the subtle patterns & colors. Look for the pearl grey windowpane or mid blue extra wide bold stripe you've always wanted. When you add anything like these to your wardrobe, you are a clothing aficionado.

We are starting to turn the corner. Business is picking up, people are getting vaccines, people are starting to travel, and overall economic conditions are looking better. Grooms are coming in for wedding suits and men are coming in to add suits back into their wardrobes. Families are starting to eat at restaurants, trying to get back to some normalcy. But, if something didn't work that well for you in the past year, then maybe its time to change it. Learn a new skill, habit or way of doing things. Make new better choices so you don't go back. And most importantly is to apply what you've learned in life to enrich your loved ones lives and make yours better.

Using the Knowledge

Fri, 19 Feb 2021 14:34:09 GMT

Taking what you've learned and read to the next level. . . practical knowledge.

Keep reading. Keep studying. Keep trying. Keep experimenting.

If you've read my blogs, then you have learned many facts and absorbed knowledge. But do you have what it takes to make it in the real word. This is the article to explain the practical knowledge side for everyday use. The real life questions, when am I going to use all this knowledge. It starts now.

The most asked question is how do I match a shirt and tie for my outfit. It is both the easiest and hardest thing to do. We use a simple ratio that takes all the guess work out; 3 to 1. The pattern in the tie is three times larger than the pattern in the shirt. You can also reverse this ratio for large patterned shirts. This is where the mixing of colors and patterns come into play by trial and error. Sometimes its more error of what you like together compared to what looks good together.

Don't be afraid of mixing stripes with stripes. Using the ratio and you will look dapper. Not using it will be a slow motion train wreck on you. So, wearing stripes, graph checks, tatersals, and plaids in smaller scales make for pairing with ties much easier. And of course the easiest shirt to wear are solids and white at that. Any size pattern tie, often the smaller, can be worn with solid shirts. The best example of starting to feel confident wearing patterns is pairing a red/navy stripe tie with a navy bengal stripe shirt. You can also pair a medium geometric pattern on it or a paisley(medium repeating or large paisley) design tie on this shirt. And I especially love wearing a large paisley tie on a tatersal shirt; a signature look.

Most men like bold color tones, so wear the navys, reds and yellows in ties. These are but a portion of the color wheel, and women love color. We tell men to go bold in color choice wearing pinks, light blues, greens, purples, and melon colors. These are often the more pastel color choices with light and dark hues. The lighter the hues of the color in ties, generally they are more spring and summer. The darker a color hues are seen more often in during the fall and winter. These tie into the color hues of seasonal clothing. You can always mix it up with medium tones out of season in your ties; keep trying.

In general, you can wear most pattern ties with most suits or sport coats. The exception is usually a stripe employing the 3:1 ratio. Most suit patterns are often subtle and large enough to allow most any pattern ties. When it comes to to sport coats,you want to use the 3:1 ratio. My favorite combination is wearing a large windowpane coat, with a stripe shirt and paisley tie; and of course solid pants. The ratio will also apply here to wearing patterned pants with you navy blazer. Continue this with pant and shirt. I will often pair a small gingham shirt with a windowpane pant and complete it with a large stripe or paisley. Always utilize the ratio when designing you whole outfit. Be aware of the bold pattern suits as you will need to adjust your ratio. Often the safest mode is to keep the tie and shirt simple with a bold suit. If you are more daring, then mix shirt & tie with subtleties. It may take a few tries to get to this level of mixing pant and shirt patterns. So start mixing shirt and tie with a solid suit or pant. Keep working it.

Mixing colors is a fine art to perfect within certain boundaries. Looking at a color wheel, three primary colors make up the core and all the fun colors come out of the secondary & tertiary colors. The color hues designers come up with are wanting to create combinations no one has seen. The human eye can look well beyond these 12 colors, just think of all the shades of blue, and numerous shades exist in each color itself. Colors you can mix together in tie & shirt combinations: red & blue, yellow & blue, Navy & blue, pink & blue, green & blue, green & white, green & purple, green & pink, every color with white, burgundy & pink, blue & pink, blue & mint, pink & mint, blue & yellow, green & yellow, rust & denim, silver & pink, and silver & blue. These are just a few combination of colors to wear together. Most ties are made with several colors together that are fun to tie the entire outfit together. Then the variety of patterns in these ties make the mixing fun using the ratio. Stripes, geometric, clubs, paisley, foulards, dots, solids, and knit ties are the majority of patterns. The following are acceptable: red & grey, blue & grey, matching tie & shirt colors, and school colors are better in ties, just not used much with us.

The best examples I can give you are what's in our gallery. Look at the forms and their combinations. As you see the less pattern and darker the color, generally speaking its more formal. You can wear the same suit and completely change the look for events. Wear a dark suit with colorful shirt and tie combination to the rehearsal dinner and put a white shirt and dark tie with it for the wedding. Same suit, two different looks that are event appropriate. And those that know us know we like to put a spin on the tie and freshen up the look with the ties we get. That way you won't see your tie on another person. Unique ties are the hallmark of your wardrobe.

Looking at all what you can do, here's what you should not mix. Don't wear dot tie with a houndstooth pattern. Don't polka dot tie with a graph check or tatersal shirt, too close. Don't wear a bengal stripe shirt with a seersucker suit; basically the same pattern. Don't wear a fall club tie with spring clothing like seersucker. Don't wear a mostly white tie with a tweed sport coat. Winter white pants or tie are acceptable. And the cardinal sin is wearing a navy tie with a black suit, or reverse them. Or the navy's not matching.

Keep trying. Keep experimenting. Remember it took Edison over a thousand times to perfect the light bulb. So keep working at perfecting you color and pattern combinations. You wont know what works unless you work through all the trial and error.

The Future of Menswear

Sat, 23 Jan 2021 15:29:53 GMT

The future means something different to everyone. . . and how men dress is no different.

Back to the Future. . .

In his 1989 classic Back To The Future II, filmmaker Robert Zemeckis attempted to predict what the world might look like 30 years ahead and in fashion terms, he wasn’t massively far out. Self-lacing Nikes, automatically heated jackets, virtual reality shades – sure, they might still be in the prototype stage or not work as slickly as intended, but they’re there. We have them. We are the future.

In terms of the actual fashion, past decades of style are likely to return, new brands will come into the sphere while old players will grow or flounder, and the rapidly changing work dress codes will have a huge impact on the suit.

There has been a move away from formality even within the city over the last five years. On a basic level, some men are not wearing ties. I don't think it will ever shift from the traditional suit. Men come into Bruce Baird to look at ties, we are known for our ties. And men will continue to wear ties, those who have not for a long time will once again be wearing them. We’re getting a lot of clients now coming in who don’t necessarily have to wear a suit for work. But they want to wear one casually in the way you’d wear a tracksuit. They’re looking for that comfort. Some men are still wearing it traditionally, but they are getting non traditional colors and patterns to wear it more casually.

Therefore, suits will never go away. You will always need a suit for a wedding or funeral. And certain professions will always don the suit as their uniform. And studies have shown dressing in suits, and more formal, produces a more productive work environment. Dress more casual at work and the employees are less productive. Post pandemic, men will throw out their worn out sweatpants, dress up and tackle the new economy. Additionally, with the return of social gatherings and events, look for business attire and business casual to return with renewed excitement. After all, you want to look great and be comfortable. The new lounge wear will elevate to leisure wear.

In the future as now, men will strive to find unique & special pieces for their wardrobe. Once a man gets a bespoke suit, an off-the-rack suit fits terrible. He gets spoiled by the fit and drape of a custom made garment. It could be a suit, sportcoat, trousers, vest, tuxedo, dinner jacket, topcoat or car coat.

We look to offer classic staples with longevity for being timeless investment pieces. Whatever he designed and hand selected for his body and taste level is what he will add to his wardrobe. Selecting the fabric from hundreds of choices reflects his taste in clothing. What colors he likes, what patterns, what weight, and finishing it off with certain details. He can look like a clothing aficionado with only one suit. We always steer him in the right direction with what looks great and the proper fit of a garment. A double breasted suit should never fit tight and doesn't look good unbuttoned either.

As the consumption model shifts towards a more sharable economy, the market for quality investment pieces intended to stand the test of time will grow, and wool is well-placed to satisfy this demand. The younger guys getting into the business world don't want what his father was wearing or what his grandfather was wearing. A s these younger dressers start to build their wardrobe, we will educate them on clothing terms, style and wardrobe mixology.

As we look into the next decade, tailoring will become an even bigger, and more versatile part of the menswear scene and we’ll see men across all age groups interacting with suiting and separates in a wearable way. The most exciting trend to watch unfold is men’s changing attitudes towards style and shopping. Now more so than ever, men are braver in their fashion choices and have the freedom and confidence to express their individuality, and that will only progress further.

Menswear Myths Debunked

Fri, 18 Dec 2020 15:18:23 GMT

Really!? I cannot believe that. . .

Really!? I can't believe that. . .

What do you take as true? How did this known fact come about? Is it fact or myth?

1. The french did not invent french cuffs. . . the British did.

French cuffs were never a part of the French culture, rather they were invented by the British. The shirts would come with buttons along the sleeves that helped men fasten their cuffs at the length that they liked. This further made its way to Europe and became well-known as French cuffs.

2. Stick with what you know.

Dressing well takes some time to develop. Using trial and error with confidence makes the dresser. The best way to expand yourself – in anything, is to try new things. It’s the same with clothes, just try them on. We do live in an online world but retail stores have change rooms for a reason and if you’ve got a spare thirty minutes,why not go play dress-ups?

Then, head on home and get to know your wardrobe in a fresh way. The biggest myth debunker is trying on something (or a combination of things) that – by the rule book – doesn’t work, and then realising it actually looks good. That’s how trendsetters do it. By keeping an open mind and experimenting with colours, textures and shapes your personal style will come alive.

3. Our suits are super expensive. While we carry some more expensive clothing lines, that is not primarily what we sell. We offer the best value for your money. And we work in partnership twice a year to offer discounts. Then the companies come back and tell us of bespoke sales. The best value for your money is Northwick- formerly known as Southwick. Our customers have been loyal to this brand for years and we love wearing this brand. The pool of clientele gets smaller as the price goes up. S0 does the the quality and workmanship.

4. The last button on a suit jacket. By King Louis XIV, he was too big for a jacket and simply didn't button the bottom. He left it open during the gala and other men attending followed suit.

5. Long before women fell in love with the idea of high heels, the noblemen of the 16th century were the ones to slide into heels. The heels were known for being a sign of status and wealth and it was worn by the French king Louis XIV.

6. Back in time, once a suit was bought, it was difficult to replace it. That's why the shirt cuffs would be left longer so that the cuff of the suit was prevented from fraying.

7. Pocket squares are an accessory that turn heads instantly. Now, imagine it being used for blowing one's nose. That's right. Back in the 14th century, it was used to dry hands or blowing your nose. Later on, tissues were invented to disrupt this practice and handkerchiefs were designed for various purposes. That's how pocket squares were made in finer cuts, and became a fashion accessory rather being used for cleaning purposes.

8. Polo players invented the button down collar.

Back in the day, polo players would have an arduous task to beat their opponent's mallet, but doing so with a flapping collar would have been impossible. Hence, arrived button-down collars, in which the buttons were sewed onto the shirt to keep it in place during the game.

9. Pink on men is a big no-no. Pink is your greatest color any time of year and, like florals, should be adopted. Pastels play up that whole south of France’s demeanor. Like a sock, pocket square or necktie mix pastel with butterflies or gray and mild, linen fabrics, and you are going to be sailing off in no time. Bold pink hues will embolden any suit combination, especially flannels when the temperatures drop.

10. The key to good style is to follow the trends. I would say it is better to follow the classic fits and looks for timeless style. You can add trendy pieces every now and then. Having style is about finding what looks best on you and what your own personal tastes are. In reality, classic menswear often appears more stylish than seasonal tendencies do.

11. Belt and shoes should match color. We would say a big yes to this. This is NOT a myth. Matching shoes and belts in the same color is the best way to dress. Let me say as of late, it's more accepted to wear different hues of the same color. Make sure it work with your ensemble.

12. Slim fit is the only way to dress. The slim-fit – from jeans to trousers, has maintained a stranglehold on the male silhouette over the past decade. But, with the rise of sportsluxe, an ‘elegant comfort’ trend has emerged; permitting men to adopt slouchier bottoms, with tapered details in the parts that matter. Cuffed tailored sweatpants and woollen, relaxed-fit trousers with pleats are perfect examples. And, yes, slim-fit is very much still ‘in’ but it’s no longer controlling things. The trick to smart/casual dressing is simple: A looser tee needs a slimmer jean, and a relaxed trouser needs a slimmer shirt. Contrasting top-to-bottom fits. Now, that’s no myth.

We carry some trimmer cut items, the majority of pants, shirts and sweaters are a regular fit. This new regular fit is is even trimmed from the huge cut that was common in the late 1980s through the 90s. With the ability to taper and alter so many items, we can fit it any way you want.

Do your own research on these topics. This is what I've learned over the years. But more importantly, wear what you have and add pieces. The most important thing you can do is experiment and see what works best for you. Try it. Vary it. Mix it up. Repeat until you find your style. Go for the PhD.

Meeting Joey Pants

Fri, 04 Dec 2020 14:20:42 GMT

The day I met Joe Pantoliano

It was a sunny Friday afternoon. . . I will never forget the day Joe Pantoliano- also known as Joey Pants- came into the store. If you are a fan of The Sopranos, the Matrix movies, Bad Boys, The Goonies, Risky Business, and The Fugitive, then you know this actor. I greeted him and he said he was just looking around. I said please look and if I could help with anything, let me know. He kept looking around liking many things. He didn't really want to buy anything. Said he was out walking clearing his head. We talked about movies and family in Chattanooga.

Then something caught his eye. It was our western style boots from J.B. Hill. We had several pair in our small shoe department. We show them and talk about different toe styles and everything they offer. He looks through the catalog to view the options. He loved the choices available and got really excited about the possibilities. I had a pair that was similar to his size so he could really see the comparison. He loved wearing boots and liked Luchasee. Bruce told him the JB Hill story and he really appreciated the history & heritage. He told me it was all about the story. Every project he's ever been involved with is all about the story and developing the characters.

He ordered a pair and we spent some time doing the foot measurements. It was very involved and precise; but that's exactly why JB Hills are SO comfortable. I got spoiled wearing mine. He said he didn't need any clothing from his days on The Sopranos, but he liked our style. He said I was top shelf for helping him out and making him look good. I even got a picture and autograph.

He hasn't been back into the store, but I will never forget that day.

Holiday Gift Guide

Fri, 20 Nov 2020 20:06:22 GMT

You have got to try this color. . . Wow!

You have to try this color. . . Wow! You will love wearing it. With Christmas and the holiday season quickly approaching, I have put together a holiday gift guide. And as always, if we don't have his size, then a gift certificate fits every time. What are you wearing this autumn? We see all looks in super casual and super dressy. Men are getting back to work, spending time with family and trying to get out of this Covid-19 pandemic. I have put a list together of luxuriously soft items, rugged pieces and timeless gift items.

Pure Cashmere sweaters by Alan Paine
Sport shirts by Seaward & Stearn
Barbour coats
"Chattanooga" belt by Smathers & Branson
Brackish bow ties
Hagen wool vest
Alligator belts
Navy blazer from Hickey-Freeman
Royal Highnies
Brax 5-pocket trousers

As long as I've been at Bruce Baird, we sell every cashmere sweater every fall season. They are super soft, warm, and come in exquisite colors. The V-neck from Alan Paine is by far the Rolls Royce of cashmere sweaters. The cut is not too small and construction is impeccable with over 100 years of manufacturing heritage. With this quality, you may be passing it on to your grand kids. Being pure cashmere- yes pure 100% cashmere- you are enveloped in a cocoon of luxurious softness that people have to feel. The colors we have are not the normal colors, that's a good thing. The cashmere hair holds a deeper and more vibrant dye of color. This season includes: forest, pink, light jade, mulberry, grey, ruby red, mist blue, and navy (our best seller).

This seasons collection is a vast array of tatersalls, gingham checks, madras plaids, glen checks, and tartan plaids from Seaward & Stearn. The colors are as vast as a rainbow and look incredible. Whether you like navies, greens & blues or pinks and purples, we have a splendid shirts to pair with Bills Khakis or dress pants. We are selling many 5-pocket style pants in cotton and denim. My favorite is the shirt called Josh in the online SHOP. This shirt exudes a fall feel with the pheasants. There several more including: Hastings, Everett, Derek, Graham, Lamar, Anderson and Fletcher.

Barbour coats are a great addition to anyone's outdoor wardrobe. The Beaufort and Bedale each bring the iconic look and feel of Barbour. This season we added Bond's Beacon jacket to the mix and a Prestbury Olive zip jacket. To add contrast and color, we added a Hortal jacket in a waxed navy. This coat buttons and has the look of a barn coat. The Teddon wax coat is brown, button and zips and has features you don't see much. Finally for those that want a vest separate from a liner, the Gilmark Gilet vest in navy. This non puffy puffy coat gives warmth while being lightweight.

The Chattanooga belt is a u nique belt for Bruce Baird & Co. The Chattanooga belt is made by Smathers & Branson. Enjoy wearing landmarks of Chattanooga with jeans, shorts, and Bills Khakis. The landmarks include: 1. Tennessee River Gorge/ Lookout Mountain 2. Chattanooga Choo Choo locomotive 3. Walnut Street Bridge 4. Civil War cannon paying homage to three

Civil War sites- A. Lookout Mountain B. Missionary Ridge in Chattanooga C. Chickamauga, GA 5. Tennessee Riverboat

6. The Tivoli Theatre 7. the Tennessee Aquarium With our own stores logo, show you support the local economy, and you carry a piece of Chattanooga with you wherever you go.

Bow ties are a great gift for men that love wearing bow ties. Brackish bow ties made out of feathers stretch the envelop being made out of feather. The feathers also give each bow the unique color combinations only nature can produce. No two bow ties are exactly alike due to natures variety in similar patterns. Think zebras, all have stripes but unique pattern to each individual zebra. Each Brackish product is handcrafted in Charleston, SC with all natural, sustainably sourced feathers. The superior artisan craftsmanship makes each piece beautiful, functional and one-of-a-kind. Every bow tie takes between four and five hours to craft, and each one passes through 15 sets of hands before completion. Each piece offers a memorable yet sophisticated look.

Hagen shirts offers a layering piece this fall in a wool vest. Offered in navy and pearl grey, they are trimmed in knit around the edges and pockets. Chestnut on navy and navy on the pearl gray, the contrast really highlights the details. Angled pockets and a button front made more a sophisticated, elegant and simply satisfying vest. Pair with cords, jeans, khakis, wool trousers, or moleskin pants and you have mastered chic casual. Pair with one of his shirts and you mastered business casual.

We have been selling a 1" dress alligator belt since day one in 1988. This belt will truly be the least expensive belt you ever buy because it will last 25 years. Coming in black, brown, and peanut(tan), a gentleman can match any shoe and wear it for any occasion. With any outfit he can don for a round of golf to suits. And he is only barred from wearing it with a tuxedo due to no belt loops. It's a special gift to mark a birthday, the accomplishment of graduation, and anniversary gift paired with a silver buckle. Christmas highlights the spirit of giving as a truly unique and special gift.

The only piece of clothing we suggest this year- other than a camel hair- is the timeless navy blazer. Men wear this coat more often than any other jacket. It goes with every pant he owns except from black or navy. Every other shade and pattern work with this coat. He can wear it for any occasion and always grabs it for the emergency meeting. Hickey-Freeman offers a midnight navy blazer in a 2 button, side vent jacket. This coat is few on flashy details so gentlemen can wear it over and over; and they will. The buttons are subtle saying its a blazer with sophistication, not announcing the fact. Its a workhorse that gets the job done when no one else will.

Underwear that's fun to wear! Classic designs and the highest quality 400 count Pima Cotton never go out of style — that’s the Royal Highnies brand. The complete line of handmade loungewear, pajamas and boxers are the ultimate combination of luxury and comfort. Does not shrink and runs true to size. I love slipping into my lounge pants feeling ridiculously and luxuriously comfortable. Everyone that wears them LOVES them.

Brax trousers are woven on a fineness scale to include 26 miles of cotton fabric in each pair. Softness for everyday wear. Truly will make you feel you can do anything, even run a marathon. Wonderful hand and drape of fabric. The pima cotton comes in moss, midnight blue, cognac, grey, and khaki. These 5 Pocket trousers come sewn with a back yoke and two sewn-on pockets. Coordinated stitching at patch back pockets. Comfort fit and straight leg. Four way stretch. This season the 5 pocket corduroys are flying out the door in asphalt and toffee.

Please hurry in or SHOP online, selections are going fast. See you soon.

The Double Breasted Suit

Fri, 13 Nov 2020 15:13:21 GMT

The Double Breasted Suit. . .timeless style

Everyone has an opinion when it comes to double breasted suits. For a while now, many have associated double-breasted suits and blazers with late night talk show hosts and actors in an amateur production of The Greats Gatsby. Suffice to say, this style of suit jacket has split people’s opinions. Say the words “double-breasted” to some and they will think of a style that’s baggy and dated, while others will think of a classy throwback. Right now, it’s a style that is making its comeback.

Go Bold! Don't be common. Wear it. Cary Grant once said if double breasted suit are in, he's wearing single-breasted. And when single-breasted are in, he'll wear the double-breasted. Break the norm and be different.

So, what makes up this jacket? Compared to single breasted jacket, there are two columns of buttons on the front of the coat. You notice this and the peak lapels immediately. This visual distinction make an immediate departure from the commonplace single breasted suits worn today. The golden era of Hollywood was known for the baggy double breasted suits worn by everyone- stars, agents, and producers. It was uncommon for a time to wear the single breasted. Even gangsters and the mob donned this look.

Tailoring today is ruled by the slim cuts, single breasted front, and side vents. Already daring, the double breasted coat should be cut in a bold pattern, stripe or windowpane. You can do a solid with other visual items to make a statement. Use it for a summer blazer or dynamic spring suit that will define the occasions. It is the combination of the traditional double-breasted look with a casual finish that makes for an interesting juxtaposition. For some reason, it just works.

Thankfully, semi-formal dress allows for a lot of your personal flair, and that’s exactly what a double-breasted suit can bring. For a semi-formal suit, opt for more reserved color choices (think creams, grays and navies.

With so much going on in the way of buttons, it’s easy to get confused about which buttons to button. We know with single-breasted jackets that you should leave the bottom button untouched. In the same way with a double-breasted blazer, you should leave the bottom inside button open.
We wholeheartedly encourage choosing double-breasted suits and blazers in bright colours, bold patterns and different fabrics. It is a bold look that you can nail with an assured sense of style. Do keep in mind, however, over-accessorizing might come across as ostentatious.
As a rule of thumb, the more structure that your jacket has, the more formal it will appear. Heavily structured, dark blazers are your best option if you’re looking to wear your suit to the office or formal events.
With the wider fit, this style does a lot to accentuate a man’s width. The broad shoulder profile and the peak lapels can make a gent appear broad, so it’s an excellent choice for skinnier guys. For the same reason, if you’re already a broad-chested man, you may want to opt for a single-breasted blazer.

The double-breast is not entirely appropriate for corporate situations, however, unless you’re somebody. By that, we mean you should be a Harvey Specter equivalent or higher – it’s a huge power play and something that might give off an unwanted flavor of superiority. With significantly more flare, the double-breasted suit exudes confidence akin to the Kingsmen, giving you that edge among a sea of your single-breasted companions. It’s time you give the double-breast a look-in this spring racing carnival or your corporate Christmas party.

Here are some things that you need to take care of while wearing one.

Go for tailoring:

The more tailored the suit, the sharper and more polished you will look. Proper tailoring will help you look stylish and well-groomed. It will fit your build well and you will look more elegant.

Fasten only one button:

Make sure that you fasten only one button while you are not sitting as it will keep you comfortable. If your suit has 6 buttons, fasten the middle one; but if there are 4 buttons in it, fasten the first one.

Pare back your double-breasted suit:

A double-breasted jacket has the potential of making your suit stylish to the maximum. So, you do not need to add more details to make it more prominent. Pair it up with a plain shirt and keep the rest of the things simple as well.

Choose dress shoes that stand out: You have the chance to risk a little bit more with your dress shoes.

And if you disregard all the rules, the one you must follow is, always button the jacket. The second you open up a double-breasted jacket, the illusion starts to fall apart. These go from chic to catastrophe in seconds flat, which requires you never release the Kraken.

Tricks of the Trade

Fri, 06 Nov 2020 16:37:22 GMT

Tricks of the Trade. . . and some other advice

Here are 15 tricks of the men's clothing trade. Some precise advice to help your game and elevate your style. Its all about trying things out and seeing what you like. Follow these and you're closing to your PhD in mixology.

Oatmeal jacket after a navy blazer
Barbour wax jacket for outerwear
Never take clothes too seriously
Formal- informal mixing= balance
dress properly and chic
knit ties, a twist for city wear
Do alterations- the whole suit- pant and jacket
Rotate colors- grey & blue , olive & brown
Burnished tan lace up easiest shoe to wear
Play with pattern, experiment with texture
Buy shoe with chunky sole for wear & longevity
Utilize loafers to upgrade certain outfits
Wear one solid item and one patterned item in your casual outfits
Wear trousers lighter than your sportcoats or jackets
Wear baseball caps sparingly and strategically

An Oatmeal(tan) jacket after a navy blazer is a wardrobe staple. We refer to a baracuta, or blouson, jacket for weight and season. This coat owns the casual lane and is dressy for the most casual of jeans. Rebel James Dean made it famous and oozed coolness. Presidents wear for different tasks; an everyman quality to the jacket being born of it being the public service garment of both postal workers and the police. Elvis, Sinatra, and Arnold Palmer all donned this jacket, which proved it was beyond the world of cool.

The Barbour wax jackets didn't gain international awareness until 1980. Thus began its iconic status that the family would enjoy. Worn by the Royal Family, fisherman, farmers and city dwellers; Barbour enjoyed a market across the population. Country and city fashion had little known the role Barbour played in World War II and Falkland War. Bikers of 90 years ago appreciated Barbour providing the first motorcycle clothing. Through cycles of popularity distant from their Sloane beginnings, Barbour today is respected for both function and fashion.

What do you take seriously? Education, love friends, sport? Life, career and money should be serious & fun because you should enjoy what you do. But clothes, this is where you experiment. Have fun and no one gets hurt. People get hurt in love, friends, sport or money. Try clothes-an outfit, style of suit, or color- you would never consider. Dare to explore and experiment and remember in the end its your personal style. They can't take that away from you.

Style is learning balance in your outfits. Dress formal while mixing informal aspects. Best example is wearing a suit with a

T-shirt or sweater. Next is jeans with a suit jacket. Learn what you like to mix together and go with it. Master the rules so you can break them like an artist.

You can dress to the nines, but if you're wearing that to the pool party then you have overdressed. Think logically about it and spin it more formal. Test and learn the rules. Do the unexpected. Learn the dress codes for events, work, and parties. Learn the dress codes for weddings. If you want to wear a tuxedo before 6PM for your wedding, then try a different fabric. Navy blue wool, denim, silks or cottons are unexpected alternatives to black wool. Learn the balance.

We love knit ties. Perfect natty alternative and gives you that collegiate panache. And being solid, they calm the nerves of those worrying about pattern mixology. But moreover, they add a punch of color to your outfit no other tie can do. Its fun and functional lacking the formality of a solid satin tie. They mix well with all textures from seersucker to flannels; just pick your color. Enjoy!

Even if you don't ever buy a suit or sportcoat from us, then get the clothes altered. Alter the length on the pants to be correct. Alterations can include waist, seat and rise on the pants. My big pet peeve is the pants being way TOO long and the sleeves on the suit jacket being way TOO long. This ill fitting sleeve makes the whole jacket look huge on the man and his hands tiny. Where we alter the sleeve, you can see a 1/4" of their shirt sleeve. Now the sleeve looks fitted and balanced- all this with typically shortening the sleeve 1/2" to 3/4" of an inch. Not much, but makes a huge difference. Moreover, we will look at the entirety of the jacket and fit the coat waist, if there's a collar roll and shoulders. More alterations are capable on a jacket.

Everyone has a favorite color. We love purples, pinks, greens, yellows, and blue. There are several other colors you can wear for shirt and ties. One school of thought is to rotate your clothing colors, whether dress or casual, between grey & blue and olive & brown. Contemporary vs. Earthy. Dark tones vs. light tones. But keep in mind your coloring and consider which looks best on you. And even when you swap out, mix the other tones occasionally. Also look at trends in dress shirts & ties, sportshirts, and sweaters. Looking at this and having moxie in mixology will make you a style star. Try it. Experiment.

I own most pairs of burnished tan shoes in my shoe wardrobe. I wear them with jeans, khakis, sportcoats, and my grey and navy suits. They exude sophistication and sartorial knowledge. Plus, you are adhering to a cardinal rule of dressing and style. I love this color because I can wear these as easily on November 15th as June 15. Just wearing a seersucker suit or an grey flannel suit with these shoes can you determine whats the season

As I mentioned earlier, mix patterns and learn the rules. Don't forget texture. Mixing texture in similar colors is a style PhD that comes from years of style and sartorial knowledge. When you play with pattern, try a new pattern and add it to your wardrobe. You will prefer patterns and others will not like them. The easiest pattern to adopt is stripes and glen plaids. Others include houndstooth, herringbone, tic weaves, windowpanes, and bird's eye. The textures that are the most difficult to master include a cavalry twill and moleskin. Camel hair is widely accepted and used for sportcoats. Thus numerous men wear them. Cavalry twill and moleskin are regulated to a few fall pant style and even less available for suits. But you may fall in love with another texture, like seersucker or linen. These are widely accepted during the spring and summer months where comfort is king. You first lesson: wear seersucker trousers with a solid linen shirt under a blazer. You've made you first grades to that PhD.

Finding the right shoe with durability can be found in a clunky sole shoe. Look for a walking shoe or semi dressy shoe because they pair great with cords and denim. Cotton pants are an easy choice to pull that all day to evening outfit. Make it work for today and a long time to come. Pairing with the seasonal flannels and lightweight wool pants demonstrates sartorial skill. The clunky shoe makes the foot appear larger giving you moxie.

Loafers are a mainstay for ease of wear and looks. Its so easy to wear a natty loafer to dress up the older jeans. Always elevate your looks and style, never look ordinary or commonplace. The outfits of jeans and khakis are oftern worn with sneakers. Break the habit, break the routine. Exceed others expectations of how you dress for the most mundane casual of tasks. Make it look daring, sharp, and unexpected; make it look effortless. Now you're getting closer to that PhD.

One of my favorite dressing tools and techniques is mixing one solid item and one patterned item in my combinations. Easiest to mix : solid suit with patterned tie or patterned suit with solid shirt. Then fill in the tie and pocket square with your favorite. Extend this formula to casual attire. Wearing solid pants and patterned shirts is the easiest and oldest combination tool most people utilize. The next, but much less common, is solid shirt and patterned pants. I see the men in the know wear solids with a single patterned piece that adds color and wow. They have their Masters, but close to the PhD.

Wearing a sportcoat or blazer, I tell men to have contrast with the trousers they wear. Go a step further and wear trousers lighter than your sportcoat or jackets. Navy blazer and khaki wool trousers is the first combination we tell men to wear. Then add a blazer grey trouser, light than charcoal and the coat, still not as light as a pearl grey pant. Khaki and blazer grey can be paired with any sportcoat. Go a step further and think lighter shade than my coat for contrast.

I like baseball caps when in the yard, at a baseball game or caught in the rain with out an umbrella. These are the smart, sparing, and strategic times to wear a baseball cap. There really no other time to wear baseball caps, except the beach. Of course, then I hope to be wearing a straw hat.

Learn and utilize these unspoken rules that everyone discusses but no one writes down. 1. No graphic tees 2. Wear dark jeans

3. Class up your footwear 4. Learn to Accessorize 5. Layered look for sophistication 6. Wear jacket to elevate casual look 7. Keep it relatively simple 8. Ignore fashion world!

And when we say ignore the fashion world, we mean it. Most people are not a 32 waist , slim chest, 6' 2". In the States, the average is 34 to 36 with most men being 5' 11". Clothes fit and wear differently after you turn 30. Your body changes drastically even staying fit and trim. You can look age ridiculous wearing the Millennials uniform. Your body changes and clothes will fit differently. May not be a big difference, but it's there.

The Peak Lapel Suit

Fri, 23 Oct 2020 16:27:34 GMT

Why I love wearing Peak Lapels.

Why I love wearing peak lapels.

Because of the ubiquity of the notch lapel, often the go-to design for large scale ready-to-wear suits produced in bulk, peak lapels are a rarer and arguably more stylish breed. Certain patterned fabrics — think stripes, checks, windowpanes, plaids — simply look better with a peak lapel. In fact, we’d argue that the bolder the pattern, the more it needs to be paired with the bold lines of the peak lapel. A bold look like a double-breasted suit? Perfect for peak lapels to make a showing. Peak lapels are the perfect antidote for timidity and so we like them with any suit that packs a little punch.

Now that we’ve shown you a peak lapel suit, let’s briefly go over the peak lapel tuxedo. When you think of the most ‘traditional’ looking tuxedo, the peak lapel tuxedo is what should come to mind. Yes, shawl lapel tuxedos exist, look nice, and can be a bit more fun (especially when worn as a dinner jacket with contrast colored pants), but formalwear doesn’t get more classic than a black peak tuxedo.

Whether you choose the classic look of the peak lapel tuxedo or the more fun look of a shawl lapel tuxedo, just keep in mind that a notch lapel is too casual a look for black-tie so avoid searching out the rare notch lapel tuxedos that (unfortunately) exist out there. This is important. If someone tries to sell you a notch lapel tuxedo, they either don’t know enough about black-tie for you to trust their advice, or they’re trying to pull a fast one on you. In either case, that should be the end of your conversation with them.

A peak lapel is also a common choice for a tuxedo, which is obviously about as dressy as it comes. On the other hand, on a more unstructured jacket, a peak lapel can be a fun way to add some serious panache to a more casual look. Like so many style decisions, it’s one that’s very malleable. It’s just up to you to steer it in the right direction.

Although peak lapels are mostly a style choice, there is also the question of who should be wearing peak lapels when the time comes. While everyone can look good in a peak lapel suit, especially if it fits you just right, certain body types can benefit in particular from the shape of the peak lapels. The elongated lapel length of the peak lapel creates a visual illusion that you, the wearer, are also longer in body length. That means gents who are shorter or broader can benefit from the subtle effect of a longer looking torso that the peak lapel lends.

Wear A Peak Lapel Suit or Tux When…

You’re going to a wedding with a “Cocktail Attire” or “Semi-Formal” dress code.

You’re doing some public speaking (whether you’re delivering a speech to hundreds or a presentation to your executive team).

Anytime you want a dose of added confidence and head-turning.

Go the made-to-measure route of custom suiting where every design detail on your suit can be selected to your liking. Getting a suit custom made used to be something reserved for the rich and famous but today custom suits are often better priced than many off-the-rack suits of the same quality. When you consider that custom also means custom-fitted to your unique body and individualized tailoring is included in the price, you’ll see that you get the most bang for your buck with a custom suit.

Black Tie Event

Fri, 02 Oct 2020 20:53:21 GMT

So, how's your tuxedo?

Do you like renting tuxedos? Do you want it to fit correctly each time you wear your tuxedo? Paying two or three time the cost of renting a tuxedo will have you a finely tailored one and sized, to fit. And you will have a tuxedo ready whenever events occur.

The tuxedo burst onto the scene in 1865, thanks to trend-setting Prince Edward VII (later King Edward VII, 1841-1910)as an alternative to the more formal tailcoat . The late 19th century saw gradual introduction of the lounge jacket without tails as a less formal and more comfortable leisure alternative to the frock coat. Savile Row tailor Henry Poole & Co., which is still in business today, fit the prince for an ensemble that was more formal than a lounge suit, but not without the trimmings of a tailcoat. (It was something the prince could wear in the dining room and informal settings.) His highness commissioned it in blue with matching pants and the "dinner jacket" — as the tuxedo was called back then — took off.

Tuxedo in the context of menswear originated in the US around 1888. It was named after Tuxedo Park, a Hudson Valley enclave for New York's social elite where it was often seen in its early years. The term was capitalized until the 1930s and traditionally referred only to a white jacket. Men also sought a similar alternative to the formal evening tailcoat (then known as a "dress coat") worn every evening. As it was simply an evening tailcoat substitute, it was worn with all the same accoutrements as the tailcoat, including the trousers. As such, in these early days, black tie (in contrast to formal white tie) was considered informal wear. Period newspaper accounts indicate that at first the jacket was worn by young mavericks to gatherings considered strictly formal. This led the American establishment to reject it out of hand. It was only by 1888 that polite society accepted its role solely as summer and informal evening substitute, at which point it became very popular.

During the Edwardian era, the practice of wearing a black waistcoat and black bow tie with a dinner jacket became the convention, establishing the basis of the current black tie and white tie dress codes. The dinner jacket was also increasingly accepted at less formal evening occasions such as warm-weather gatherings or intimate dinners with friends. After World War I, the dinner jacket became established as a semi-formal evening wear, while the evening tailcoat was limited to the most formal or ceremonial occasions. In the decades following the World War II, black tie became special occasion attire rather than standard evening wear.

The earliest dinner jackets were of the same black material as the dress coat with one, two or no buttons, and a shawl collar faced in satin or ribbed silk. By the turn of the twentieth century, the peaked lapel was equally popular and the one-button model had become standard. When trousers were sold with the jacket they were of the same material.

Traditionally worn only for events after 6 p.m., black tie is less formal than white tie but more formal than informal or business dress. As semi-formal, black tie are worn for dinner parties (public, fraternities, private), fundraisers and to balls, galas, and weddings. In the 21st century black tie is often referred to as being semi-formal. Operas, cruise ship dinners, movie premiers, and collegiate debate societies are often overlooked areas where men can wear the tuxedo. Black tie is worn to private and public dinners, balls, and parties. At the more formal end of the social spectrum, it has to a large extent replaced the more formal white tie. Once more common, white tie dress code is now fairly rare, being reserved for only the most formal occasions. Black tie is traditionally worn only after six o'clock in the evening, or after sundown during winter months.

Today, more and more young men are adopting the black-tie styles of the '30s and '40s. Midnight blue tuxedos have even made a comeback. Period dramas like "Mad Men" are at least part of the reason for the shift, with men growing nostalgic for a bygone era of neater, more crisp duds.

We can make a tuxedo for you, it typically takes 4 weeks or so. The one thing men can change about this semi formal garment is the lining inside the coat. This is where men can have whatever color or pattern. And no one see its unless he shows the burgundy paisley, blue peace signs, pink stripes or silver bicycles. See? Any color or patterns.

My First Interview Suit

Fri, 25 Sep 2020 16:37:20 GMT

They say a dog is a man's best friend.

They say a dog is a man's best friend. I submit a correction to this old adage- A navy suit is a man's best friend.

The virtue of a navy suit in every gentlemans wardrobe cannot be overstated enough. Dinner with clients or friends, the business conference, even in court or on Wall Street, a solid navy suit is the quentessential suit. Always looking formal and darker then a black suit, men don't always understand what an incredible suit it truly is. But what color do men need start looking for in their first suit? They look for dark colors and simplicity achieving elegance and the ability to wear it over and over. They look for that suit out of college, or during college, when starting their career and looking for that first job. Therefore, a well fitting suit for the interview is vital in landing that first job. And when interviewing, never be flashy. Be conservative and formal in your appearance. Wear the solid navy suit to the first interview, and every interview.

Clothes are an expression of your individuality, but be quiet and pay attention during the interview. Show you can be patient, learn and be part of a team. This is where you first develop your character and intelligence; during the interview. Look back at what you learned when you purchased the solid navy suit. From the personal fittings to sartorial education and guidance, it was to help in the establishment of your character as a gentleman. When you showed up properly dressed for the interview, it showed acumen of the situation. Awareness, education, understanding and insight are foundational aspects when developing your character. Gentlemen collaborate and never take credit. And when they do, do so humbly.

Every gentleman will remember that first interview suit. When they were young, eager and a little naive. Everyone has to learn and great mentors are results from this first interview. Learn from these mentors and pass on the knowledge and passion for whatever you are doing. Do it with grace and integrity.

This suit will remain in your life for weddings, funerals, business functions, fundraisers, and graduations. And I said it here, wear it to work or dinner without a tie. A colorful pocket square can sometimes take the place of a dynamic tie. And you will have mastered the art of wearing this timeless piece; the navy suit.

Shoe Styles for Men

Fri, 18 Sep 2020 16:04:52 GMT

Don't wear the same shoe everyday.

Variety is the spice of life.

Take care of your shoes and they will last a lifetime. Be willing to invest in your shoes for the office & business casual, have a variety, and don't wear the same shoe everyday. When creating your shoe wardrobe, or collection, think of formality, versatility and durability. At the end of this article, I have listed 17 shoes for an outstanding closet. If you don't want boots and no super casual shoes its a cool dozen. Besides a pair of formal shoes, you will be set; or add to what you have. Sometimes you find a pair that defies the versatility, you just love them and gotta have them. The first eight styles are shoes most men have in their closet because they go with everything. You want to look immaculate and dapper; so keep them clean and polished.

Black dress shoes need to be worn with black suits or pants, but men don't follow this rule. Shades of brown look best with navy, grey and earth tone clothing. Save the black for blacks suits and your tux. Make sure brown tones are different and from what you already have in your shoe closet. Rich cognacs, burnished tans, and dark browns highlight the rich fall hues & tones in men's clothing. Over the years my shoes have taken a huge number of scratches and scrapes, yet through wear and occasional cream, they've simply been embraced, softening and becoming part of the leather’s intricate texture. I’ve simply done good, basic maintenance of a fine shoe.

I don’t think too much emphasis should be placed on comfort. A leather dress shoe is never going to feel the same as a sneaker or an espadrille. It cannot and still look like this. Still, shoes must be comfortable. How that’s defined is subjective, but I’d suggest you need to be able to put them on and forget about them, all day. This is due to partly fit and partly leather. People often want not just comfort, but immediate comfort. They don’t consider that if something is going to adapt to you, it cannot be the same on day 1 and day 50.

Finally, a word on style. These shoes, these great things that have aged, have become so because they suit how I dress today. You want your shoes to look slim and elegant while at the same time looking as resplendent additions to your ensemble. This takes time, trial and error, to perfect. And you can continuously evolve your personal style. Always meet the needs of your demanding lifestyle. Invest in good quality shoes and you will replace them when you kindergartner graduates from college.

Best Shoe Styles for Men

Black Bal Oxford Lace Up
Burnished Tan Split Toe Dress Blucher
Medium Brown Half Brogue Oxford
Genuine Shell Cordovan- Color 8 traditional saddle
Brown Derby Full Brogue Wing Tip
Dress Loafer- Penny or Tassel
Monk Strap shoe- Mahogany- single or double
Casual Loafer- Bit, Tassel or Penny loafer
Chukka boots- leather or suede
Suede (snuff color) in lace up Blucher or slip on
Chelsea boots
Wolverine 1000 Mile boot
Indy boot
Two-toned Lace up - Black/White or Tan/White
sneakers
Boat shoe- think Sperry's
house shoes
flip flops

Remembering 9/11

Fri, 11 Sep 2020 15:16:21 GMT

Remembering those that lost their lives. . .

I remember exactly where I was. . . .

I remember exactly where I was on September 11th, 2001. My daughter was 4 days old. I was a young man working a new job and learning new skills. I was checking on electrical work at our house when I heard on the news about a commuter plane crashing into the North Tower of the World Trade Center. I immediately thought that's odd on such a clear day. That's all I thought, like everyone else until 9:03. At 9:02 the South Tower was hit.

Everyone knows the next order of events. I was at work now and we were all shocked about what happened next in DC and PA. I thought when will it end. It did, but not before 2,977 perished. More than 6,000 injuries had the nation hurting. But we came together in the end. We will carry on. We will never forget.

Life was going on regardless of what happened. On Thursday, September 13th we were having a trunk show event. The thing is on Tuesday our account executive was at a airport in Texas. Steve Yardley was flying up to show the line. He called about 11:30 and said the US airspace is closed; he couldn't get to Chattanooga. No more airplanes would be flying that day or until further notice. We were not surprised about this reaction after what just happened. We tought about it the rest of the day and decided to still have the show. Life went on and it was a tragedy. We honored the victims the best we could by living and helping others. People needed a momentary distraction to help cope with what happened. Laughter and comradery are incredible healers.

I was moved and sensed a new wave of healing at the Super Bowl in February. U2 played the bast halftime show by honoring all the victims. By displaying the naming on a star wars-like crawl, U2 was acknowledging the US was still hurting and the tragedy of the situation. But also, honoring the people who perished on 9/11 and that the US would carry on. A stirring song combination of "Beautiful Day", "MLK" and "Where The Streets Have No Name." The lyrics are amazing. The songs took on new meaning as a way to comfort the country and make a personal tribute to the victims. The attitude was recalibrating your life about what was important. The Star Spangled Banner got a sense of new meaning. The first responders, NYPD, and FDNY were honored in a new way and even more so appreciated.

"No relative wants to believe they've lost a statistic. We want to honer them." Bono said in an interview discussing the halftime show.

Denim & Khakis

Fri, 04 Sep 2020 13:12:38 GMT

All day comfort never goes out of style.

Timeless apparel shines with the utmost class and should never be considered out of style.

Whether you're passionate about jeans or khakis, everyone wants comfort after they take off the suit. After hours or on the weekend, khakis or denim is the uniform of choice. Denim is always new and according to the outfit chosen, it doesn't matter. Denim is king and knows no boundaries. From the vast choices of cuts and colors, you can transform yourself to take on the world or that DIY project. Selvidge dark wash jeans elevate an outfit, independent of what you wear with them. The dark wash makes easy the transition from day to night. Modern straight leg jeans that look both refined and comfortable. The medium and lighter shades of denim show a love of denim. You have worn this or that pair for years; a favorite. Wear denim when comfort & fit are non-negotiable; all day comfort. Find jeans that are age appropriate, timeless style, and a perfect fit. You want luxury, comfort and impeccable style.

Khakis- the look you can't go wrong with. They are something of an American tradition, with a story as American as apple pie. Always lead never follow when it comes to your khakis. Bills Original Twill are inspired and modeled after the original WWII khakis, in fabrics, construction and pattern, right down to the 14" deep drill cloth pockets. Those issued by the Army endured a war and the rebuilding of America. By today's standards, it's not surprising that Bills Original Twill set an industry standard. Bills Khakis has a vast array of cotton weights and weaves for every mans taste. Worn to kick around in or pressed to the nines with a blazer, they will serve you well. And when they did start to wear, they took on character and could slowly be demoted from the front of the wardrobe to the rear.

Men know what they want: comfort and quality. And because they fit; never in or out of fashion. Some might use the word timeless, or classic. So, your uniform of choice for work- khakis or denim- negotiate the deal, run the business, or lead the sale team in style & comfort.

Dopp Kits

Fri, 28 Aug 2020 13:32:59 GMT

Where's my Dopp kit? I need to pack now. . .

Being organized ensures you are never rushed or lose your cool. As a general rule, have 2 sizes of Dopp bags, one for a last minute weekend away and a larger Dopp kit for the business trips. Having everything in order will help you focus on the trip, away or on business.

Thank Charles Dopplet, who invented it, for the confusing name. But he felt grooming was important for every gentleman. He created toiletry kits- waterproof- making it easy to transport everything a man needed for good grooming. First sold in 1926 in Chicago, it was made of waxed leather with portability and utility in mind. Over time and gained popularity Dopplet is shortened to a Dopp kit. So Dopp kit refers to more to the bag than your items. You need the toiletry items listed for your Dopp kit.

World War II solidified usage as soldiers had them issued and came home with them. A man's wardrobe is not complete without one, especially when he travels. A Dopp kit is so portable that you need to keep the size in mind for travel by air, land and sea.

Travel light, think solids. Buy toiletry sets. If something never makes it out of the bag, then don't pack it. Save the space. Know what you can get through airport security- TSA and International. The clothes may make the man, but the toiletry bag makes the man smells good on a layover. The perfect Dopp kit depends on the individual.

Dopp Kit essentials:

MINI DOPP KIT

Deodorant
Toothbrush and Toothpaste
Lip Balm
Pomade
Dry Shampoo
Razor
Shave Gel/Cream

REGULAR DOPP KIT

Body wash or soap
Shampoo & Conditioner
Comb
Good quality razor
Pure Badger brush
Pre-Shave oil, Shaving Cream, After-Shave balm
Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, mouthwash
Sewing kit
Deodorant
Band-aids
cologne
Sunscreen for the face
Pomade or hair product of choice
Lint roller
Breath mints
Medications
Nail clippers
Dry-Shampoo

Dry Shampoo can do a world of wonders. Keep a small container of dry shampoo. Its a lifesaver after a long flightand gives a quick spruce up. It helps freshen your hair after a long day or when you can't have a decent shower. Other items you can consider or add on your own: moisturizer, bug spray( jungle or rural travel), digestive medicine, electrical tape, extra emergency cash. Add or subtract what you feel you need.

If you have a carry on, then pack your mini kit, a clean dress shirt, socks, dry shampoo and small towel. You can spruce up if the checked bag is delayed. Always be prepared when you travel.

The Three Piece Suit

Fri, 21 Aug 2020 13:21:00 GMT

The three piece suit is elegant & sophisticated

The formal cousin to the classic suit, the three-piece suit comes with its own set of style rules and expectations. Once you put a three-piece suit on, you will be encouraged to behave elegantly, confidently, and become the most stylish gentleman.

Want to stand out in a crowd? Then have at least one elegant, three piece suit in your wardrobe. You will master the art of sophisticated style; its your ticket to success. A suit is not only a manifestation of a man's external charm but also a measure of a man's inner taste. It is the gentleman's secret weapon in his wardrobe. Whether you call them vests or waistcoats, that one extra garment adds character to your basic tailored suits and proves to the world you've mastered the art of dressing like a gentleman. Always leave that final (bottom) vest button unbuttoned. This gives you a little extra room to sit, stand, and move while still maintaining the trim and fitted look of a well-tailored suit.

The three-piece suit originated in England in 1666 when Charles II, in a rebuke to the ostentatious French fashions found across the Channel in the court of Louis XIV, set aside the traditional doublet and hose in favor of a long wool vest paired with a knee-length coat and stockings. Over the ensuing centuries, the coat and vest became shorter and the stockings became trousers, until the outfit gradually evolved into today’s familiar and iconic three-piece suit.

When you don that vest, you’re inheriting a fashion tradition that has remained at the forefront of style, as respected and admired by today’s modern gentleman as it was by seventeenth-century royalty. The aesthetics of this look reflect that long and distinguished history: A three-piece suit communicates sophistication and confidence. When you’re wearing a three-piece ensemble, the suit itself—and particularly your vest—should be the focus. A dress shirt covered with bold patterns, stripes, or checks will pull attention away from the cut, style, and fabric of your suit. Muted shirt patterns are fine, but aim to keep eyes on your suit, not your shirt. You must wear a tie with your three-piece suit. End. Of. Discussion.

Whether you’re a guest, groomsman, or groom, weddings are the perfect occasion to break out your best three-piece suit. Generally speaking, formal dressing is a welcome sight at the office in many professional fields, such as law, finance, business, and government—particularly if you’re in a senior management position. At the theatre, symphony, or opera: are you likely to spend time at intermission in the lobby with a flute of champagne or a glass of Scotch in your hand? If the answer is yes, then by all means, wear your three-piece suit. It might be overkill, but there’s something inherently satisfying about the burst of confidence that comes from catching everyone’s eye as the waiter shows you to your table.

Classic and versatile, the three-piece suit is has been a longstanding favorite of fashion-forward gentlemen for a reason. Don’t forget the most important element: the fit. When you wear a three-piece suit, the eyes of everyone around you will be drawn in particular to your vest, your tie, and your midsection. If your suit doesn’t fit properly—if the buttons of your vest gape, if the shoulders of your jacket are too tight—people will notice.

A vested suit adds class and formalness to your wardrobe. You remain put together at all times.

The bottom button on your waistcoat should always be left undone, as this stops everything looking too squashed together.
It's a striking fashion accent and looks suave.
It's versatile - omit it and wear the suit solo for a two-piece suit look.
It's practical - with or without a suit jacket, you look dapper and well-dressed.
Make sure your three piece suit fits well and that you can comfortably do up your jacket over your waistcoat.
Keep your shirt simple to ensure it doesn’t compete with your three piece suit for attention.
Pair your three piece suit with smart accessories, such as a tie, pocket square and dress shoes.
To wear a three piece suit for a formal occasion, stick to classic colors and ensure the fit is excellent.
To wear a three piece suit to work, keep your look smart with a navy or grey style and business accents, such as a subtle pinstripe or traditionally patterned tie.

When you're in the market for a new custom tailored suit, you'll enjoy several advantages by working with Bruce Baird & Co. First, we’ll help you master the art of sophisticated style. Depending on your budget and needs, we'll help you create a look that's all your own. Lastly, we'll show you how to rock your new outfit so you look trendy or timeless and always in style.

Black Tie

Fri, 14 Aug 2020 13:57:47 GMT

How's your tuxedo? Time for an upgrade? Try a bespoke tuxedo. . .you will love it.

Wearing a custom tuxedo at your wedding, or any formal event, is a way to project elegance, sophistication, and confidence. The right tuxedo will provide you with a flawless fit and enduring style.

Whether your style is classic or vanguard, a tuxedo represents the best formal evening wear. And yes, there are ways to assemble an elegant tuxedo that allows your own sartorial personality to shine through. However, before you reach for that eggplant colored velvet, let’s skim through certain guidelines that ought to be adhered to as faithfully as possible. The tuxedo, also known as a dinner jacket or smoking, is to be worn exclusively in the evening after 6 o’clock. The dinner jacket is the foundation of the black-tie ensemble. The model, style, and facings chosen for the jacket set the tone for the formality and swank of the remaining attire. It also embodies the refined minimalism that sets evening wear above a simple suit through the clever concealment of each garment’s working parts. Next is the pants with the fabric down the outside leg, which match the facing using in the jacket. You may only want to personalize the jacket or personalize both pieces. A classic black tuxedo is an elegant, timeless choice that you can wear again and again to all sorts of formal events. If you’re spending money on a custom look, you’ll want something high-quality that’ll be worth the investment down the line. You may love to play around with trendy suits, bold colors, and fun patterns, but trust us: stick to something traditional for your tuxedo.

After that, you can decide whether to purchase a cummerbund or vest, a dress shirt, bow tie, cuff links, and shoes at the same shop. If you already own some of these pieces, you may not need to buy them again. Or you may like to buy everything in one place to make sure the entire outfit looks great together. Details make the difference when wearing your tuxedo.

You may be invited to participate in or attend—you may wear your tuxedo at any of the following events:

Opening night at operas, ballets, and symphonies
Award ceremonies
Formal receptions
Formal galas or fundraisers
Formal dinner parties
Formal restaurant dinners
Any event, such as New Year’s Eve parties, at which the invitation calls for black tie.

A formal shirt should be a white color and made of the finest cotton dress fabrics. Traditionally, the shirt features a spread collar, with or without a pleated front or piqué insert. The French cuffs (double) are always fastened with formal cuff links. Never be afraid to upgrade your formal tuxedo shirt. Less men are wearing wing collared shirts, the wide spread collar with no pleated bib is the king of style. Also a different color other than white during late spring and summer is acceptable, think pale blue or soft pink. There are two acceptable/proper tie styles to wear with the formal shirt, a bow tie with a cummerbund set and a long tie with a waistcoat or formal vest. A bow tie with a formal vest is another option than can be considered. The "ascot" ties and "bolo" tie styles are alternative styles men wear outside of tradition and should never be worn after 6. White Tie/ Tails calls for the plain front formal shirt with a wing collar and white bow tie.

Because a tuxedo is such a rarified garment, designed to be worn on select formal occasions, many men assume they won’t have sufficient opportunities to make the investment worthwhile and thus choose the path of least resistance by renting or borrowing one when the situation requires it—such as on their wedding day. This is a surefire path to a poorly-fitting suit and a great deal of discomfort throughout the event. Avoid all that and consider the benefits of a custom-made tuxedo. Black tie elegance is always in style. Designers and stylists have found innovative ways to cut and style the tuxedo with modern flair without sacrificing the look’s enduring appeal. A custom tuxedo gives you the perfect fit. Your tuxedo is fully personalized to the coats lining and name label containing your date. Your personality and style will shine through in every component of your look. The custom tuxedo gives you great return on your investment; it can last a lifetime. The craftsmanship, care, and high-caliber materials that go into a custom-made tuxedo mean it’s made to endure. You will be ready for any formal situation or event.

When you own your own tuxedo—and particularly when you own a tuxedo that fits your body and your style so well that you can pull it out of your closet, put it on, and be ready to dazzle guests at any formal event—formal dressing will be something you anticipate with pleasure. You’ll be the sort of man who fits in naturally at formal events, who leads the kind of lifestyle where tuxedos are an integral part of a wardrobe. When you own a custom tuxedo, the world of black-tie events will open wide to you, ushering you into its exclusive ranks. When building your tux, talk about how you want your tux to look and feel, and they can give you helpful advice on fit and style. You want to create a tux that you’re happy with, but don’t be afraid to defer to your tailor’s expert opinion, too.

We recommend black tuxes. Midnight blue is a solid second choice for color.
Choose a single-breasted one-button jacket with a peak lapel (the original tuxedo shape) or a shawl lapel.
Select either grosgrain for peak lapel or satin for shawl lapel, for your “facing,” which is the material on your lapels and trouser piping. It should always match the color of your tux.
Pick a bow tie & cummerbund or a dress waistcoat that matches your lapel facing.
Select a shirt collar style. When in doubt, go with a spread collar. Save the wing collar for White Tie(tails).
Choose a pair of polished black lace-up plain toe bal oxfords or opera pumps.
Finish your look with formal accessories including black silk socks, suspenders, and stud/cuff link set. You can choose a crisp white pocket square or boutonniere if you like.

Clothing Terms 101

Mon, 10 Aug 2020 16:03:15 GMT

What does that mean?

The basic terms describing features and construction elements in clothing can be difficult. These terms are also intricate in the measuring process for your bespoke or off the rack suit as well as shirts and trousers. Some of the most common measurements and pieces of a suit are visually explained in the above picture. Following are basic terms every man should know and what they mean.

Lapel - The folded fabric on the front of a suit jacket. It's usually notched or peak and should be in proportion, width-wise, to your tie.
Thread Count - This does exactly what it says on the tin. The thread count measures the exact amount of threads per one square inch of fabric. It’s always best to go for a relatively high thread count, from 100-120, as this ensures that the material will be soft yet durable. If you start going above 200 for your thread count, then you should probably reconsider, as this much finery is likely to make the fabric a lot less durable.
Shawl Collar - A type of lapel with no notch or fold. A shawl collar, also known as a shawl lapel, runs unbroken from the top of the collar to the buttons.
Bespoke - A piece that has been crafted to the customer's specifications. The client is measured and has the option to choose everything from fabric to stitching.
Black-tie - Code word for a completely black tuxedo with a white formal shirt and a black bow and cummerbund set. Depending on the lapel, match the grosgrain or satin to your cummerbund set added. Brace are a plus to hold up your pants and for comfort. Black socks and black patent leather shoes are non-negotiable for black-tie.
Button down - A button-up shirt with a button-down collar.
Pleat- Stitched and folded fabric that forms a permanent crease on pants. Pleats are timeless in the correct model. A standard cut is more appealing than the relaxed fit.
Break - How much of the bottom of a pair of trousers fold where they meet your shoes. A full break is a lot of folding; no break is not folding at all. Breaks are a matter of personal taste, but medium breaks are most common. While less of a break can yield a slimming look, if you're still getting a sense of your personal style, a medium break is a safe choice.
Yoke - The shaped section along the shoulders of a dress shirt that connects all the other parts of the shirt. One-piece yokes are common on off-the-rack dress shirts. Split yokes place a seam in the vertical center of the shoulder. Often, the two pieces of the split yoke are rotated at an angle, creating a chevron pattern when a striped or checked fabric is used. This can be beneficial for two reasons. First, custom shirtmakers can potentially adjust each side to accommodate asymmetrical shoulders, but more importantly traditional non-stretch fabrics offer more give when pulled at an angle than when pulled vertically or horizontally, allowing greater comfort with movement. More practically, it's a style preference as the resulting pattern can complement a man's v-shape, and is a more formal look.
French Cuffs- Twice as long as regular or “button” cuffs, french cuffs (or “double cuffs”) fold back and fasten with cufflinks or fabric knots. French cuffs lend an air of formality to an outfit, and are usually worn with suits or tuxedos. The French Cuff actually originated in Britain. It didn't gain its current name until it became a trend in America in the 1930s. The cuffs were viewed as luxurious and sophisticated, and became identified with French fashion. French cuffs can be worn with a blazer or jeans, but make sure that you have considered ways to make the look less formal. For example, fabric knots instead of cufflinks might do the trick.
Gauntlet button - A button placed halfway down the placket of the sleeve. This button maintains the sleeve's tailored appearance, but allows the shirt to be rolled above the elbow when unbuttoned.
Gusset - A triangular or rhomboidal piece of fabric inserted at a seam to add strength and durability to a garment and reduce wear and tear. In men's formal wear, you'll often see a gusset in the underarm of a dress shirt. On casual shirts, this is the triangular piece present on the bottom side of the hem.
Braces - A British term that refers to what Americans call “suspenders.” Sartorially correct braces are pieces of fabric (sometimes silk, sometimes not) that sit on the shoulders and attach to the trousers’ waistband via buttons to hold them up. Clip-on braces are incorrect.
Vent - The slit you see on the backside of blazers, sport coats, suit jackets, and any other type of jacket. Two types are center vent and side, The purpose of a vent is to allow the suit jacket to fall over the back of a seat or stool, and help you avoid sitting on your jacket. The vent originated as a way to help men comfortably ride horses. However, they did not become standard in formalwear until after World War 2, when horsemanship was on the decline.
Nap -The raised surface found projecting from a fabric. Napping can be produced intentionally (by brushing) or naturally (during weaving). The most common “napped” fabrics we wear include flannel and wool. In addition to a relaxed, rustic look, napping also provides additional warmth.
Warp -Warp is the vertical threading of a garment. In contrast, “weft” is the horizontal threading.
Bi- Swing Back - Found in casual sport jackets, these have vertical inverted pleats running from shoulder to waistline on each side of the back. Often paired with a stitched-on half belt in back.
Half Back - -A tailoring term that refers to the distance between a jacket’s center seam and where its side and sleeve seams intersect.
Surgeon Sleeves - Surgeon's sleeves, or cuffs, refer to functional buttons on a suit jacket sleeve. These buttons are often decorative on suit jackets today. Surgeon cuffs are a symbol of quality. When wearing jackets with surgeon cuffs, men will often leave the final button unbuttoned as a nod to sartorial tradition. Bespoke tailors sometimes build a contrasting thread into the final buttonhole to emphasize the surgeon's cuffs. The cuffs are named for Civil War era surgeons, who wanted to work all day without bloodying the arms of their coat.
Chalk stripe - Vertical lines on a suit fabric, designed to look like the colour of tailor's chalk. The lines are subtle and hazy compared to the crisp, distinct lines of pinstripe.
Peak lapel - The peak lapel creates an aggressive - yet rakish - upward point towards the shoulder; emphasising the already dramatic 'V' silhouette (especially when used on double-breasted cuts) and helping elongating the wearer's frame.
Pinstripe- Narrow, crisp lines running in parallel, found in cloth often used for suiting. Originally called a coach line, the pattern is evenly woven into fabric generally spaced one half to one inch apart.
Goodyear welting - A method of shoe construction in which the insole, upper, and welt are sewn together. The welt is then stitched to the outsole as to leave the upper surface of the insole free of tacks and stitches. This method allows for resoling and is virtually waterproof.
Shank - A steel spring doe 4 inches [10 cm] long and three-fifths of an inch [1.5 cm] wide that strengthens the region of the waist in the gap formed by the welt and the insole. It stiffens this part of the shoe, which must not move when walking.
Slanted Pockets - Pockets set diagonally instead of horizontally. Also known as "hacking" pockets in England.
Three- rolls - two - Also called a three-two or a false three. A hybrid of a two-button and a three-button jacket. A three-rolls-two has three buttons, but the lapel is shaped to roll as above the second button but below the third button, which hides the top (third) button under the roll. A classic choice preferred by many suit aficionados for both sport coats and suits, the third button is not used.
Ticket Pocket - A narrow, single pocket set above a flap pocket on the right side of the jacket. Uncommon on ready-to-wear suits, the ticket pocket has been around for many decades and continues to be a good choice both for slanted or straight pockets.
Neck Slope - An alteration in bespoke shirts that "drops" the collar at the front placket. This ensures the man having no neck comfort. Because of the construction, only 1/2" is the maximum allowed amount.
Bias - - A garment is said to be “cut on the bias” when the a woven fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle. Any necktie worth buying is cut on the bias as this allows the tie to knot properly, stay resilient after many tyings and untyings, and avoid twisting when hanging around the neck.
Bolt - A length of wool cloth from the loom. Ranges in size from 50-70 meters long and 32-60 inches wide.
Button Stance - Refers to both the number of buttons on a jacket or waistcoat and their placement relative to the wearer’s navel.
Crease - The vertical line that runs from a trouser’s thigh down to them hem. Ideally, it will bisect your knee.
Facing - An extra piece of fabric on a garment’s edge which protects and hides the seams. An example would be the lapels and pockets of a tuxedo.
French facing - A facing that is part of the same piece of fabric as the lapel. This is common in both unlined and partially-lined jackets.
Gorge - The place at which a jacket’s collar and lapel meet. Gorge height (or placement relative the the collarbone) changes with fashion every decade or so.
Hacking jacket- A longer-than-regular length tweed jacket made for horseback riding (“hack” is short for “hackney,” which was a horse used for ordinary everyday riding, not racing or hunting). Traditionally features a raised waistline to allow for greater flair at the hip to make sitting on a horse easier. Also has a deep center vent and a three- or four-buttoned single-breasted front with hacking pockets.
Outseam - The long seam on the outside of a trouser leg. This measurement gives you a truer and more accurate measurement as rises can range 3/4" to 1" easily affecting pant length.
Hand Pick Stitch - - A line of stitching at the edges of lapels, collars, and jacket hems. A sign of a custom suit or sportcoat set at 1/16″ corresponding to a more sophisticated look.
Lap Seams - A line of stitching at the edges of lapels, collars, and jacket hems. A sign of a custom sportcoat, generally 1/4" corresponding to a more casual look.
Point to Point - - The distance from a jacket’s shoulder seam to the other. Used by made-to-measure, custom, and bespoke clothiers, it is a crucial measurement as altering jacket shoulders is quite time-consuming. This same shoulder measurement is crucial in custom shirt making for overall fit.
Vest - American term for “waistcoat,” this is a garment that covers the torso but not the arms. The third piece of a three-piece suit.
Slope - The angle of the shoulder line. May be regular, sloped (shoulders angle downward) or square (shoulders form a 180-degree line). Shoulders are often not of the same slope on a customer. And one shoulder can be "lower" than the other. Opposite is square shoulders, moderately low cut or short neckline.
Waist- - There are three distinct waist measurements: the pant waist, shirt waist and coat waist. The pant waist is 1" below the navel. This is where all tailors and clothing companies measure and place the trouser for a correct fit. Denim is worn about 3/4" below this on the hips. The shirt and coat waist are the same measurement for each garment, respectively. These are generally measured 1" above the navel or the fullest part of the stomach.
Roped shoulder - the sleevehead (top of the sleeve) is attached to the armhole a bit higher than the shoulder, creating a ridge or “roping” detail.
Morning coat - - Morning dress is a unique garment in the sense that it is cut away and it’s called a morning coat. It is not the tail coat or the penguin which you know from evening wear and that’s only appropriate for white tie. Wearing a morning coat is still popular for society weddings in Europe or in England. It’s mostly underutilized in the US yet, for horse races and other events, you can still wear it. If the dress code says formal day wear, it means the same thing, you should wear a morning coat ensemble. Just like black tie and white tie, the morning coat dress code is very detail-oriented. With the morning coat, you never wear a belt, but always suspenders, that way, everything stays up. You can either wear single-breasted waistcoats or double-breasted ones, I like double-breasted ones because they go with the look of the open morning coat, they’re a little more special, and that’s exactly the right thing when you wear such a unique garment. Traditional colors of the waistcoat include dove gray or buff which is a form of chamois yellow, however, you can also go with maybe red or blue, it’s really up to you and what style you want to set. Wear black cap toe oxford shoes with this Morning coat.
Cuffs - Basically, it is a folded edge at the hem at the bottom and it looks like a turned-up edge that it's added to the pant leg. Traditionally, a cuff is not cut but simply folded from excess fabric at the bottom hem. Because of that, if you will let out the cuffs, you could always create a longer pair of pants or trousers.
Hand hem - A hand sewing technique used to finish the length on dress wool suits trousers. A skilled tailor or seamstress hand finishes this time consuming technique efficiently.
Shoulder pad - are a type of fabric-covered padding used in men's clothing to give the wearer the illusion of having broader and less sloping shoulders. They are shaped as a semicircle and made most commonly of cotton.
Floating canvas- a floating canvas refers to a fabric panel sewn inside the front of a suit jacket or coat.
Stitched lapel - refers to the small subtle stitching around exposed edges on a suit, such as the lapel and pockets and even buttonholes. Pick stitching adds an extra “finished” look to a custom suit and can be designed to blend seamlessly into the suit.

Classic v. Slim

Fri, 31 Jul 2020 13:16:12 GMT

Finding the right fit for you can seem impossible.

The navy suit is an impeccable interview suit, never upstages the groom and is always somber at the funeral.

Most men don't like the slim or contemporary fit of a suit. They want to feel comfortable first, then they are concerned with how it looks. A good suit always elevates your wardrobe, don't let it be constrictive in movement. To make your suit timeless and versatile, a classic cut suit is the ideal. A slim fit suit follows the fashion of the time and will be a captive to the contemporary fits.

We prefer the classic styling fit for a lifetime of comfort and wearings. It is most similarly styled after the how the British dress where Americans have taken their clothing cues for over a century. And a navy suit is your best friend; you can dress in this for any occasion. Its an impeccable interview suit, never upstages the groom and always somber at the funeral.

If a man has any weight or muscle mass on him, then he will appreciate the look and comfort of the classic fit. We always tailor and alter garments to fit a gentleman to hid this and accentuate that. We often do this for the man looking for a slimming look but not being too tight. This is where the tailors eye comes into play. We know how to give you the best of both worlds, comfort and the slimming effect. More than once men have told us they will get a slim fit suit to please their wife regretting it 2 months later. We alter it to be more comfortable and fit correctly never sacrificing the style.

Age is playing a huge part in the clothing fits; its in the eyes of the beholder. The majority of men under 30 want to look nothing like their dads or granddads in a suit. Young men want a suit to show offer their physique and youth. At this age it makes sense. This is where we advice men to dress age appropriate. Nothing looks worse than forcing a style not flattering a body type. And I have learned getting older, you generally gain some weight. I cannot wear anything I wore in college; my dad the exception.

Invest in a well tailored suit that will provide years of wear ability. You are actually smarter to invest in a well tailored suit. The construction is far superior with fully alterable seams. What does this mean? If your weight fluctuates, then the suit is altered and still wearable. The slim suits these days have no room for extra fabric in the seams. Therefore, if you gain 10 to 15 pounds, then it often means a new suit or wear something else because its too tight..

The fabric of a well tailored suit is far superior in material, drape, and the way its cut. Our clothing companies use fine wool fabrics from the best mills around the world. England and Italy have the finest. This fabric with the content and how its loomed gives it a drape flattering to his shape. It moves with him giving great comfort. Most consumers do not know how fabric is cut. Most higher end companies use more fabric in the cutting process thereby giving the fabrics longer wearability. Cutting on the bias, or diagonal, produces the best drape while sacrificing the number of garments from a bolt. Quality over quantity.

We provide the best of both worlds. We advise on the fit being flattering to every gentleman. Pick a fit from the above picture and we can tailor the suit to match. Then will fit a garment properly giving the wearer a slimming look. Comfort is paramount and we make you look incredible with all the shirt & tie choices proposed and advised. Fashion of the slim fit is temporary and expensive. The classic style suit is timeless and affordable. Investing in a well tailored suit being comfortable and slimming is a wise investment. This is our specialty.

Shoe Care

Sat, 25 Jul 2020 14:37:29 GMT

The life, comfort, and appearance of your shoes are dependent upon proper care.

"Wanna know if a guy is well dressed? Look down." - George Frazier

The life, comfort and appearance of your shoes are dependent upon proper care. Follow these following tips and you will enjoy long wearing of your shoes.

1. It is always important to use a shoehorn. If you don't, the backs of your shoes may break down, shortening their life and diminishing comfort and appearance.

2. Excessive heat and water are injurious to leather. When shoes are wet, insert shoe trees and let them dry at room temperature. The shape of your shoes will be restored.

3. Shoes need a rest. The same pair should not be worn two days in a row. Changing shoes daily means longer wear and healthier feet.

4. Proper cleaning and polishing is important for preservation and appearance. Quality polish nourishes and protects leather and should be used regularly. Cleaning your shoes periodically with saddle soap removes dirt, old polish and some stains. Cleaning also restores natural oils that keep leather pliable.

5. Using shoe trees regularly protects the leather, fabric, stitching, and soles from moisture damage, adding to their life. A cedar shoe tree's unique wicking action quickly absorbs moisture, acid and salts, thereby reducing cracking and deterioration.

Comfort is what you expect from your shoes. No single article of clothing is so articulate as a shoe, and none is so revealing of the status and attitude of the wearer. For a man, buying business footwear is often an act requiring considerably more time and thought that than given to the selection of an accessory or even a suit. The result must satisfy not only the wearer's aesthetic needs, it must also provide long lasting comfort. Regarding fit, full attention must be paid as they cannot be altered like a suit.

Top quality brown leather shoes confer a richness and character to any type of color fabric worn in close proximity.

Contrary to popular opinion, a good make really is a guarantee of high quality. A man will buy a poor of shoes only once. The good makes have all been on the market over 20 years- some more than a hundred. Purchasing is a deliberate act. Consider the shape for longevity. Always select the classic or timeless shoes; Bal oxfords, Brogues, or monkstraps.

A good outfit and good shoes go together- for not even the best shoes can be guaranteed to rescue a questionable wardrobe. A sense of style will not simply fall into his lap, however make a plan- putting shoes at the top of the list. A man with a decent pair of shoes makes his entire wardrobe look improved and superior. Men pay attention to every other part of their wardrobe lacking invested in the highest quality shoes. For what can be more obvious than good shoes; we have on our feet for half our lives and they give us comfort & pleasure over the years.

Plain vs. Pleat

Sat, 18 Jul 2020 14:23:17 GMT

To pleat or not to pleat. . .that is the question. Whether tis' nobler to wear plain front or. . .

The debate regarding how a pair of trousers look being plain front or pleated has raged on for decades. But its really rooted in the cut of the pant. A pleated pant has about 3" more fabric in the legs than its plain front counterpart. Pleated pants give the wearer more comfort no matter their proportions. Pleated trousers give more room and comfort for a man with a large stomach, full seat and large thighs. A young man or one who has a slender build often prefers the plain front trousers. And where- on, above, or below- you wear the trousers completely changes the fit of the trousers.

Moreover, a classic dresser does not follow the current fashion of the day. He relies on his personal style and he prefers a comfortable yet flattering fit in the pleated trousers. A traditional dresser often wears a plain front trouser with a modern leg. In the last 5 years, the contemporary fashion designers, have been pushing & showcasing a trimmer, plain front trouser. This is great for the lucky men under 30 and trim with a 32" waist. But very uncomfortable and tight for anyone older and having a larger build; or any excess weight.

It's amazing how war affects style. Tailors had been making trousers with pleats as the norm. But due to a government requirement, manufacturers conserved fabric and plain front trousers became standard issue. But pleated trousers with suits because they look dressier maintained their longevity pre and post war. And we continue this style today with much success. Now we are seeing a resurgence of plain front pants for casual or sporty wear; like Bills Khakis. But for suits and sportcoats we are still selling more pleated trousers than plain front trousers. With navy blazers, men mix plain front on certain days and pleated on other days. Men like the pleated pants for the comfort level. Women like the plain front because they are more flattering. Then we see men come in with their girlfriends or spouses, and the women like how thin their man looks in plain front trousers. In reality, no matter which front a man prefers, it can be tailored to fit him being comfortable and looking slimming & flattering.

A gentleman with a well rounded wardrobe will have both style of pant and will know when & where to wear them. The fun in dressing is about learning what items and "looks" go well together. Its these subtle nuances that can take your style from "OK" status to "Dapper" status. We are here to tell you how to put these outfits together and in certain cases what is the correct way to dress. Then once you learn these rules as a master you can break them like an artist.

Business Casual

Fri, 10 Jul 2020 16:50:57 GMT

Office casual or business casual ?

"Gentlemen's clothes are a symbol of the power that men must hold and that passes from race to race."

-F. Scott Fitzgerald

A sense of indifference, never look like you are trying to hard. Clothes have a neat nonchalance that expresses ones charisma. It's not about casual, its about comfort. The impression you want to give with a casual wardrobe is that you are comfortable in your clothes and comfortable with your job. So comfortable, in fact, that you don't need some silly suit to show that you are a serious player.

Unfortunately, men crave uniforms and feel overwhelmed by too many choices. The trick of the moment is to find a uniform that fits your work while still achieving the twin goals of being comfortable and projecting authority and accomplishment. The new wardrobe is built around a well made distinctive jacket. A jacket establishes who you are and what you do. The original office casual uniform was something a man might wear on Friday before heading out to the country for a weekend. Showing up at the office in riding clothes was one way to say that you're successful enough to spend your weekend on a horse farm. An alternate work uniform is slowly emerging for men who think wearing a sportcoat and tie is both too casual and too constraining, but not a tie. Men are turning to a colorful shirt with a dark suit or colorful pocket square with a white shirt becoming the same distinctive focal point that the power tie once was.

The benefit is being familiar to men functioning as a uniform without feeling constricted. Dressing down isn't an excuse for dressing carelessly. In the casual era, men don't wear power ties- they wear power shirts. Selection of color offers an outlet for personality and creativity.

So lets go through all the business casual elements. The right pants are a cut above in comfort and fit with a refined appearance that dresses up or down with equal ease. Depending on the season, pants are a perfect companion for sweaters, jackets or blazers. This wardrobe basic to any outfit is smart, practical and good looking. The jacket is a piece you will rely on for classic good looks, unmatched in comfort. With the right jacket, its perfect for travel, it parks easily, is great on a plane or train and looks just as good at dinner as it did at breakfast. The shirt, dressy or casual, can be bold without being brash, completely comfortable. And when looking for a shirt, get the classic and a piece that is a fresh take on the classic. You can dress timeless and edgy modern. We often take the standard shirt up a notch keeping them luxuriously soft with brilliant color. We always start with simple, elegant, and versatile producing a collection meeting the demanding standards of your lifestyle.

Now the fun sweaters, pocket squares, shoes, and socks. There are several sweater materials we love and find effective for your wardrobe. Cashmere defines casual elegance being the most luxurious fabric. An alpaca sweater is often overlooked; this special goods is cool when it's warm and warm when it's cool. A pullover zip merino sweater is great for a layered over or under, perfect solo. The pima cotton sweaters are so soft, so smooth, so comfortable, you'll wish you could wear it everywhere. And a great sweater is an easy going alternative to a sportcoat. An elegant white pocket square is a crisp look on any suit. Take a colorful square and your outfit can be suddenly tied together.

From formal shoes to lace ups and buck shoes to sneakers, shoes are the foundation of any outfits ensemble. And men mixing it up like never before; formal shoes with jeans and sneakers with a suit. So explore and examine your wardrobe to see what you can develop and contribute to your array of outfits. You will be looking good, geared up and prepared for any situation life throws at you. The right socks add color and design to your every step. Several ways of wearing include contrast or harmonizing; even matching your shirt color. Try both ways and see which you prefer. Always make the outfit as unique as your personality. Think about who you are, then try to accentuate the basic aspect of your personality.

When wearing office casual, look into your wardrobe. Every office interprets business casual differently, so feel out your office. Or try the combinations in the above photo. Key word is try, and try new combinations. Add color where you want while maintaining your look. You'll never know its a mistake until you take the risk and walk out the door.

Fashion is what you buy; Style is what you do with it.

Don't worry if you're not where you want to be yet. Great things take time.

Summertime Seersucker. . . . and white

Fri, 03 Jul 2020 20:44:24 GMT

The livin' is easy in seersucker

A must for summer. . . the seersucker cotton suit.

Seersucker is distinguished by its wrinkled appearance, caused by a weave that bunches threads together. This process allows the fabric to sit away from the body, for better air circulation, and dissipation of heat, and the lack of necessity to press the fabric, regardless of humidity. This makes for a sense of coolness while wearing and yes; you can wear it to summer weddings Seersucker has always been a mainstay of Southern gentlemen.

Seersucker, available in numerous colors, has made the summer wardrobe for gentlemen since it was first loomed. The term seersucker comes from the Hindi word "sirsaker". The fabric first became popular in the British warm weather colonies like British India and Australia. It was as popular a fabric then as it now. Lords and Dukes found it refreshing in the heat. A wide range men of today as well are fans of seersucker: Ronald Reagan, George H.W. Bush, Miles Davis, Dustin Hoffman, Gregory Peck, Jonah Hill, Will Ferrell, Harry Truman, Chris Evans, Jamie Foxx and Jeff Bridges.

Before air conditioning summer clothes were prized more for their open weaves and ability to reflect the heat than for any great variety of hue. So for comfort men limited themselves to one palette- white seersucker to nearly tan linen. Few men feel comfortable wearing clothes that make them feel so vulnerable. Most men seem to think white is too feminine. White is sometimes used to transform our presentations of well established characters. A white dinner jacket softens our stance toward him. Suddenly its not so hard to imagine him as a casino owner with a heart of gold. The secret to wearing white is to make sure that what you're wearing mixes various textures and hues. The true power of white is best seen in the subtle overlapping of white and white like tones. Tone. Tone. Tone. Make sure your white items span the range from bone and cream to eggshell and laundry white. Don't forget to have a selection of textures easily at hand.

Men wear white throughout the year and don't realize it; at least hues. Think about it: white dress shirts are the foundation of every man. And the stone colored cotton trousers men wear every season. The perfect white shirt will give the most casual occasion an air of formality. But to have the perfect white shirt for all occasions means having several different kind on hand. The laundry white pant or coat scares every man refusing to wear it until they realize what's in their wardrobe. Men love khakis and white button downs as the de facto work uniform.

My Wardrobe Basics

Fri, 26 Jun 2020 16:50:04 GMT

What suits, or outfits, should be in my wardrobe?

A solid navy suit is a man's best friend. He can wear this to any event: weddings, parties, funerals, conferences, and meetings. The navy suit is a core component to a gentleman's wardrobe. And if you can only start with one suit, get the navy. Instead of buying suits all in one go during your triennial trip to the store, try to acquire a suit or two at a time. Live with it, wear it; then decide what you'd like next. Take the time to develop your personal style. Know what suits you best and don't confine yourself to one style of suit. Once a man's got a sense of himself, he's halfway down the road to getting a sense of style.

A tuxedo is the ideal second component. And ideal because of all the galas, fundraisers, and parties these days. And if a gentleman attends 3 or more events a year, other than during the holidays, he would be a fool to rent one. The tuxedo is the only part of a man's wardrobe that lets him indulge in the rococo aspects of dressing like a man: When else can you wear something like a cummerbund?

A navy blazer is an essential coat for a man's wardrobe. He can wear this year round and with any pant; except navy or black. Men will wear the blazer more than they realize. Its perfect for khakis and business casual. Most men have one in their office and will grab that coat for the emergency meeting. They grab that and make haste to the meeting. But you can dress it up for the planned meetings, conference and confirmation. Worn with flannels in November or linens in June, the navy blazer takes you everywhere you need to go.

The fourth component to the ideal wardrobe is a solid charcoal suit. We like this color better than black because when you wear black, most of the time you're in your tuxedo. The charcoal suit is an elegant suit not being bright or complicated so it can accompany you to any event and establish rank. Dressing with confidence marks you as a self-assured man. You can pull this off and dare to be judged by your appearance. These suits remain the building block of your wardrobe.

Pinstripe suits can be conservative or aggressive. A navy or grey stripe suit balances the audacious lines appearing subtle and conservative. The simple power of the pinstripes cannot be overstated; smart and sophisticated. Tycoons, eccentrics, entrepreneurs, and movie stars dress to stand out in the grey pinstripe. Nothing states power, prestige, and confidence like a grey pinstripe suit. The navy pinstripe is as classic to clothing as apple pie is to Americana.

For daily suit wear a great core includes: solid navy, charcoal stripe, a navy stripe and solid charcoal. Add other colors like in the above picture -left to right-Cambridge grey, navy blue, and Bankers grey to your clothing. Then start adding other patterns like a prince of wales check or sky blue stripe which will solidify your look and establish your clothing personality. And depending on your stage in your career, start by blending in and looking the part. Then as you advance and gain notoriety and respect, become the sartorial dresser to stand out and make your mark.

Besides the navy blazer, a few sport coats of consequence include the camel hair coat, summer navy blue blazer, the olive tweed jacket, charcoal herringbone, and the "Italian" blazer. The Italian blazer is a khaki based district check jacket mixed with burgundy, navy, and olive windowpanes. Whatever you choose to wear, have them look the part. Some men mix it up with seasonal sport coats immersed in style for that season or a year round coat that looks incredible with any pant he owns.

You will now need shirts, pants, ties, and pocket squares to wear with these basics. Wear the ultra traditional white button down dress shirt with any jacket except a suit. The timeless blue button down is equally indispensable with jackets except suits. Wear open collar and shirts with french cuffs with your suits. This is where you truly can experiment and mix your colors and patterns to enhance and define your style. The most basic rule on pattern is size, use the 3 to 1 ratio. Pattern in your tie needs to be 3 times as large as the pattern in your shirt. Same goes for the shirt to suit pattern; the more subtle suit pattern the better. Shirt pattern three times smaller than the suits. And you can easily wear stripes with stripes, use the 3:1 rule.

The best pants for you wardrobe include khaki cotton, grey wool, khaki wool, and mid grey wool. Navy blazers look best paired with mid grey or khaki. Worn with charcoal, the blazer combination can look more like a suit having no contrast. We recommend having several pair of cotton khaki trousers that can be worn with a blazer or sweater. Pleated or plain front pants and cuffs or no cuffs is personal preference. While a cuff finishes the pant better and pleats are often more comfortable, plain front pants have been the driving force of style. They immediately take 10 pounds off. Have at least one good white french cuff shirts worn with a suit or blazer. Invest in several well made solid shirts are what 80% of men wear; they are always needing a clean white shirt.

Adding more color and pattern is up to your taste level. However, every man looks great in a pink shirt; try one. The ties and pocket squares are never too matchy matchy. Look at all the combinations and start with the red power tie, then yellow or blue and other color wheel choices. Then you may fall in love with a color; go with it. Mixing patterns is the big leagues of dressing. It shows that you can pick your own clothes and can do it with authority, humor, and adventurousness. Aren't those traits you want to present the world?

Keep socks and belts easy to match the pants and shoes, respectively. The shoes are best worn in all the shades of brown; tan, burnished tan, mahogany, chestnut, and chocolate. Wearing the shade of brown is more dependent on the season, not the color of suit. Generally speaking, wear the darker shades with the darker suits. Never wear black shoes with navy; save black shoes for your tuxedo. Burgundy is a timeless classic looking best worn with navy. Very dressy and a great alternative to black. Lace ups with the suits and save the slip-ons for the sport coats and trousers.

Sport shirts, sweaters, sport trousers, belts and outerwear jackets all round out your basics wardrobe. These take time to add and often men already have. But the fore mentioned items are usually well made for years of service. You invest a little more in these basics and the quality will be remembered long after what you paid for them.

Combining and integrating all of the information you can produce all sorts of outfits. Your formal wear, suits for the office or 4 PM wedding. You should have enough for business wear at the office or conference. Just dress with confidence in your style.

Trunk Shows

Fri, 19 Jun 2020 17:05:25 GMT

Can I get that in my size? Yes, we'll make it for you.

More than 100 years ago, clothing salesman had a tough time moving the trunks of the newest suits and sportcoats. Now it's much easier showing swatch fabrics of the companies selection of fabrics. In the "old days" these salesman would visit better mens clothing stores and showcase to their customers everything in the trunks. Thus they would hold a trunk show and gentlemen would buy then or order from a sample they tried on. The options each company offered produces a garment, or garments, as unique as each individual. And these companies dressed the executives, attorneys, stock brokers, business owners, and clothes horses. Clothes horses covers a lot of territory; which are whom these trunk shows were geared.

Men that had a passion for dressing and fashion is why the fabric selections were so vast. You want that man that loves color, pattern, and style. You want men who are willing to, and like,experiment with these and add his own personal mastery. This is how we see the changes in men's fashion. The Prince of Wales is the most notable with his pattern of choice. He exemplified a wearer being in love with a pattern, or style, and incorporating it in his wardrobe. The only other man that is held in such high esteem is Cary Grant; and he oozed style.

And the everyday man is not forgotten; everyone is a different size. A man can be the "perfect 42 Regular" or an odd size combination; which most men are. The trunk show is the perfect time for a clothes horse to flex his creative muscles and a man who's hard-to-fit finally have a suit fit correctly. And nothing fits better than a well tailored suit, or sportcoat. If you want it slimmer or fuller than a regular fit, then we will make it how you want.

On Thursday June 25, Hickey-Freeman will be showing all the year round fabrics to have clothing made. Invest in a well made suit for all time. Or a sportcoat you can mix with every pant in your closet. If you want more trousers for these coats or one tuxedo that fits you well so you can end the rental cycle. For the fall, topcoats can be overlooked until its too cold. Then you need one. Stop that search and plan the investment for the future. A well made garment will provide for decades of wearability and style to your wardrobe. The best areas to start are the basics. When these are covered, then expand your wardrobe. And during the trunk show, a reduction of 20% is offered for a short window of time. This is the time to take advantage of the fabric selections, styling, and price. See you on the 25th.

Father's Day

Wed, 17 Jun 2020 16:46:12 GMT

Grill master or Dad joke loading

"Dad, your guiding hand on my shoulder will remain with me forever. "- unknown

So what do you think of when you think of dads? That he was around all the time, gone, mean, passed away, tough relationship? Whatever it means to you, your dad has an indelible mark on your life. From the dad jokes to lessons learned, to grill master and nap team captain, most of us learn the way we see life from our dad.

I only wanted to share a few words regarding dads because everyone has a different relationship with them. Known as a great story-teller or jokester or a serious by the book man, your father loved you and was a special person. You were special to him and could spell love- T-I-M-E. Be thankful for your Dad, I know I am and love him very much. His lessons were not always easy; they best things in life are rarely easy. Remember those, the good times, and be thankful for your Dad on this Father's Day.

A father is neither an anchor to hold us back nor a sail to take us there, but a guiding light whose love shows us the way. -Unknown

Being a great father is like shaving. No matter how good you shaved today, you have to do it again tomorrow. -Reed Markham

By the time a man realizes that maybe his father was right, he usually has a son who thinks he's wrong. -Charles Wadsworth

Dad's are most ordinary men turned by love into heroes, adventurers, story-tellers, and singers of song. -Pam Brown

I believe that what we become depends on what our fathers teach us at odd moments, when they aren't trying to teach us. We are formed by little scraps of wisdom.

-Umberto Eco

Any man can be a father, but it takes someone special to be a dad.

-Anne Geddes

The older I get, the smarter my father seem to get.

-Tim Russert

Rules For Dressing: How To Dress For Success

Fri, 12 Jun 2020 13:48:19 GMT

How To Dress For Success

I can dress you from a round of golf to black tie event, and everything in between.- R.T.

Many say the rules were made to be broken. So learn the rules like an expert so you can break them as an artist. One of the first rules we tell men is to wear the suit coat with the suit pant. This first rule may not seem hard to remember or follow, but do it. Wear laced shined up shoes with a suit, not slip on loafers. Save the loafers for sportcoats and blazers. Wear black shoes with your black suit or tuxedo. Save the brown, tan or burgundy shoes for the suits- navy, grey, olive, and charcoal- in your wardrobe. Solid white and blue dress shirts are what most men wear. They are a timeless look that aid in your outfits look. And you can mix pattern in shirts and ties; and with clothing. You just have to be aware of the scale of patterns ratio: 3 to 1 is the safest scale men use. And, by far, the easiest and most pleasing scale to the eye.

Be sure pants and socks match at all times. Shoe color is irrelevant to socks matching the pants. Then the shoes should match the belt. Black and burgundy are easy, its the brown shades that give men headaches. The browns can include colors ranging from tan and mahogany, medium brown to dark brown and chocolate brown. A well dressed man will wear brown shoes with grey and navy suits. And the brown shoes look great with earth tone suits.

It is appropriate to wear a starched non button down collar dress shirt with your suit, preferably french cuff. It is more accepted in the south to wear a button down dress shirt with a suit. You can wear a wool suit through the year. The color and weight determine the season.

Always wear shined shoes.
Always wear laced up shoes with a suit.
Always match belt and shoes.
Always match socks to trousers
A navy suit is a man's best friend. Then a charcoal one.
Always wear sport trousers or casual trousers with a blazer or sportcoat. NEVER wear suit trousers with another jacket.
NEVER WEAR NAVY SUIT PANTS WITH YOUR NAVY BLAZER.
A navy blazer is more dressy than a sportcoat.
With a black or navy blazer, DO NOT wear black or navy trousers with them, respectively. Instead wear a navy or black suit.
You can wear a wool suit throughout the year. The color and weight determine the season.
Generally speaking, the darker and simpler a suit is, it's considered more dressy and conservative.
Wear linen, seersucker, white buck shoes, and the like, from Easter to Labor Day.
Wear suede shoes throughout the year.
Wear Harris Tweed, flannel suits, and topcoats from Labor Day to Easter.
When wearing seasonal clothing, wear the seasons appropriate attire. Don't wear black shoes with seersucker. Don't wear seersucker with a Harris Tweed sportcoat. Don't wear linen pants with a flannel sportcoat.
It is appropriate to wear a pocket square in your clothing jacket. Wear a white square in suit coats, sportcoats, and blazers. The white pocket square is the most conservative and best choice for every suit a man owns.
Wear minimum jewelry.
Metal on watch, rings, belt buckle and eyeglasses need to match. Gold with gold and silver with silver.
Make sure the tie is outfit appropriate. For example, don't wear a wool tie or Christmas tie during the summer. Don't wear a dressy elegant tie with a casual outfit. Certain ties look best with suits and others go best with sportcoats.
Every man should have a navy blazer, a black tuxedo, a charcoal suit, a seasonal sportcoat, and business casual outfit.
DO NOT have your clothing dry cleaned TOO MUCH. They will become stiff and boardy when this happens. Clean only one time per year at the MOST. Often the clothing items needs a good pressing as a result of wrinkles; not to be dry cleaned.
DO NOT steam your suits longer than 10 minutes. Steam is water and will cling to the wool showing puckers and getting heavy.
Use a Four-In-Hand knot for your button down shirts. Use a Windsor knot for the open spread collar shirts. Be sure to complete your knot with a dimple, pinch and flair out.
Learn the dress code for the event. If you are not sure, overdress. Better to show up in a tuxedo at a barbeque than jeans at a black tie event.
White Tie Dress= Tails Tuxedo with White Bow Tie
Black Tie/ Formal= Tuxedo with Black Bow Tie
Semi-Formal= Dark Dressy Suit or Tuxedo
Business Attire= Everyday Suit and Tie
Business Casual=1. Sportcoat/ Blazer, Trousers, Dress Shirt & Tie 2. Sport Trouser and Sportshirt
Casual= Trousers, or Khakis, and Sportshirt
Resort Casual= Fun wear for men usually involving shorts and knit shirts.

YOU ONLY HAVE ONE CHANCE TO MAKE A FIRST IMPRESSION.

Men could dress better

Fri, 05 Jun 2020 16:40:57 GMT

Why can't men dress well?

Clothes really are the best expression of your individuality.

Why can't men dress well? Except for the chaps in the above picture, women have wondered this for decades. And when offered every opportunity to learn, take interest and change these habits; they scoff and revert back to their uniform. Why can't they show up properly dressed for a job interview, family barbecue or dinner with a client? These questions do apply to men even when they think they don't. Ask a woman and she says that men lack imagination. We want to push men from their comfort zone, try new things and wake up their imagination to what is possible.

Men do lack a sartorial imagination. And if a man cares to show any interest or imagination they are quickly branded as something other than a man. During the sweeping culture change, men dressing well has taken last place to him assuming new work roles and family roles. Men have given up and want to be comfortable in their new roles. But within the new economy, men are pushed into the role of 24 hour employee when public and private barriers are collapsing. And when men have to dress for all occasions- work, play, and in between- the clothes suffer to what is easiest to wear.

The new economy should have pushed men to become more creative and make an effort in to experiment with clothes. You didn't see principles emerge that men could learn from and follow. No new normal meant a lack of color and imagination. And without a sense of freedom, men are stuck in the melancholy of the sameness. There are a few men that are choosing to dress and are taking it seriously. Those are the ones taking advantage of this vast repertoire available today and embracing sporty chic. This is the new balance between casual and business dress. Sportcoats with shirts & ties paired with jeans or a great looking sweater with cotton trousers and sneakers are becoming the new uniform of sporty chic.

As a means of self expression, the clothes a man wears and the car he drives both point to the masculine impulse to show off. So why do men know more about their cars then the clothes they wear? Both are expressions of who you are and clothes really are a better expression of your individuality. But men learn in school and from their dads how cool cars are as compared to learning thread count & haberdashery. To care about the way you look appears to be a more shameful vice than having problems with drugs and alcohol. Let's get these skeletons and demons out of men's closets so they aren't so afraid of dressing well.

Now men have no excuses. With the variety of colorful sportswear, dress shirts, ties and pocket squares, these would easily complete and fill out the wardrobe of a cultivated, successful man. With some instructed imagination and experimentation, men will gain experience in how to dress and can grow in matters of style. I encourage men not to shy from the risks of dressing differently. People notice the difference and appreciate someone making a statement. Men need a mentor, or guide, to encourage them on how to express themselves through their clothes.

And this is a major reason that we look to Cary Grant for sartorial wisdom. His understated elegance exemplified his personal and public lives. His timeless look is tried and true because there's really nothing tailors and designers haven't already tried once or twice. His style took him anywhere and everywhere. Cary Grant was as comfortable on a movie set as in a office wearing those timeless clothes. And Hollywood exudes the modern norm where work and play, business and social life are completely intertwined.

Style is not about dressing the right way. Clothes express character and intelligence. And when choosing the right wardrobe and mastering this habit, he can apply it all around town, at work, or out on the town. So come into the store with questions or email us. We want to be a beacon of sartorial knowledge for men stuck in the wasteland of dismal dressing.

Taking Care of Your Clothing

Fri, 29 May 2020 21:01:58 GMT

Suit Care

What's the biggest myth taking care of a suit? Men get clothing way too much; not talking about dress shirts. The biggest confusion stems from the suit pant or jacket being wrinkled. They are often dry cleaned where all the garment needs is to be pressed. We tell men to have their cleaners PRESS ONLY; and repeat these instructions. We can spot clean many garments and press it.

Brush the clothing with a straw brush on a regular basis to keep dust and dirt from accumulating. The brushing can cut in half the amount of times you would otherwise clean the garment.

If you get caught in the elements, and your garment becomes wet, allow it to dry naturally at room temperature. Nothing is worse for a wool garment when its wet. Washing and drying- not dry cleaning- will shrink the wool and washes out the natural lanolin. Lanolin comes out during the dry cleaning, but does not shrink wool. The wool recovers after each process, but less is better.

Always hang the suit, or jacket, back on the hanger you use with a broad shoulder. If you still see wrinkles in it, press the garment in those areas on the wool setting. NO STEAM.

If you are traveling with a suit and it is wrinkled, hang it near a hot shower for 10 minutes. Then let it dry naturally. The steam will help restore the natural moisture of fine woolens and remove wrinkles. Any longer than 10 minutes and the wool absorbs water in the wrinkle.

Press often, dry clean less.

How's Your Blazer?

Tue, 26 May 2020 19:42:39 GMT

How's Your Blazer?

Every gentleman has his go-to outfit. Usually this includes a navy blazer with dress khakis or grey slacks and a white button down. You can vary this ensemble with other patterns in pants and shirts. This versatility of wearing the blazer makes it a staple for any gentleman's wardrobe. While it may be viewed as a casual jacket, its dressier than a sport coat. It is better to show up over dressed in your blazer than under-dressed sans the blazer.

The roots of a blazer date back to the HMS Blazer uniform for all officers and sailors. The captain would decide on the look of their crews' uniforms. The captain wanted to smart up his crew when he heard Queen Victoria would inspect his ship. He made them wear blue and white striped seamen's sweaters and navy blue in a short, brass buttoned, double breasted, reefer style. "Reefing" the sails reduces the area of sail exposed to the wind. This side vented, double breasted blazer became part of the nautical fashion inspired by Britain's naval power and empire building. The reefer evolved to become part of the officers dress uniform in the style we know today.

Today you can change the vast choices of button stance, linings, working buttonholes and the buttons themselves. Coin buttons, bone buttons, mother of pearl buttons, engraved buttons, enameled or shiny brass buttons will convey the look and role of your blazer.

The navy blazer is actually the most formal, classic, traditional, and conservative jacket apart from wearing a suit. It passes the jacket required test and elevates any business casual to business appropriate. It will take you to conferences, meetings, lunch at the club and dinner.

* From the halls of study to the halls of power.

Our Credo

Wed, 20 May 2020 19:52:56 GMT

Our Credo

"Style begins and ends with Cary Grant. --Alan Flusser

Cary Grant was not born Cary Grant, but Archibald Leach. We look back on his life & career and he managed to be effortlessly stylish and elegant. But how did he go from Archibald to Cary Grant. Everyone learns in life and Cary Grant is the epitome of sartorial style. His personal tailor dressed him and educated him in the Sartorial basics. Then he experimented with what he liked and dared to be risky.

Are you daring? Do you like to take risk? If you don't dare to be different as an individual, then you will dress like everyone else. Be yourself to express that individuality. At Bruce Baird & Co., we love to teach men- both young and old- the virtues of sartorial style. We will encourage you to experiment with color, pattern, and fit.

Cary Grant was a man of character as well as a man of style. Grant learned and developed his sense of character through his shopping experiences with his Saville Row tailor. Like these tailors, we use only the finest cloth. The wool and a lamb, as our symbol, serve as a reminder to each customer that we are committed to selling only the highest quality of men's clothing; both in material and workmanship.

We will do anything we can to please our customers. From personal fittings to sartorial education and guidance, we want to help in the establishment of every gentleman's character.

Elegance gives the wearer confidence and the look of someone not trying too hard. Learn this elegance through your successes and failures of dressing. Don't dress like every other other man, become yourself. We look to Cary Grant as our role model for character, elegance and style. Find your inner Cary Grant and develop your character. We will assist you along the journey. We will assist you in this transformation.